Day 8 – Panama Canal

When I made my way to the Sky Lounge this morning, Viking Sky had just sailed under the Atlantic Bridge, which we had driven across yesterday. We were waiting to pass through the Gatun Locks and into the Panama Canal. Neither Tim nor I had ever been through the canal, and we were excited to make what would prove to be a memorable journey.

The Atlantic Bridge Under Threatening Skies

The Panama Canal is about 48 miles long and crosses the Isthmus of Panama at its narrowest stretch, thereby connecting the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. Locks at the Atlantic side lift ships 85 feet to Gatun Lake, while locks at the Pacific end then lower the ships to sea level. The Panama Canal is one of the largest and most complex engineering projects ever undertaken.

A French company was the first to attempt the construction of a canal, beginning in 1881, but its efforts were unsuccessful. The United States took over the project in 1904 and opened the canal in 1914. The Unites States continued to control the canal and surrounding Panama Canal Zone until its handover to Panama in 1977. The Panamanian government assumed full control in 1999.

The Panama Canal is the only place in the world where a ship's master gives full command to the Panama Canal Authority pilot. Mules and tugs are used to guide ships through the canal locks. Tugboats pull, or push, ships through the lock's entry using a tow line. Electric locomotives, or mules, run along the lock walls to keep ships centered in the locks.

I was perhaps most excited to go through the Gatun Locks, since this was all new to me. The Gatun Locks, a three-stage flight of locks, lifted us to the level of Gatun Lake, about 87 feet above sea level. Despite a brief rain shower, the weather mostly cooperated for us, and it wasn’t even too hot and humid on deck. I stayed outside for this entire transit and then finally moved to the World Café for breakfast as we sailed into the massive Gatun Lake.

In and Out of the Gatun Locks

Looking Back toward the Atlantic Bridge While in the Gatun Locks

Tugs and Electric Locomotives, or Mules, Helped to Guide Our Ship

The Only Photo I Took of Gatun Lake

While we were crossing Gatun Lake, I took a break from the canal. Before long, it was lunchtime, where the World Café was hosting a Caesar Salad Station. Shore Excursion Manager Chantelle and her Assistant had been roped into helping serve the salad.

A Yummy Caesar Salad, Mine with Salmon

In the afternoon, we entered the Chagres River and then passed through the Culebra Cut, which slices through the Andes Mountains and crosses the Continental Divide. We could see the terraces along the banks of the canal, a method that helps prevent landslides, as we sailed under the Centennial Bridge.

Approaching the Centennial Bridge - Note the Terraces along the Banks

As we neared the end of our journey, we entered the Pedro Miguel Lock, which lowered us 30 feet to Miraflores Lake.

Pedro Miguel Lock

I wasn’t expecting to reach the two-stage Miraflores Locks so quickly, and I was in our room when we approached the locks. So, I watched the initial passage on the Bridge Cam, which provided a great view. I did manage to get out on deck to watch as we were lowered to sea level and as the final lock opened.

Entering the Miraflores Locks

In the Miraflores Locks

Getting Ready to Exit the Miraflores Locks

We knew that we had almost reached the Pacific Ocean when we sailed under the Bridge of the Americas. We could see the Panama City skyline in the distance, as well as Frank Gehry's Biodiversity Museum, a structure that I had been looking forward to seeing.

Getting Ready to Sail Under the Bridge of the Americas

Panama City Skyline and Frank Gehry's Biodiversity Museum

Into the Pacific Ocean, with a Lineup of Ships Waiting to Transit the Canal

After almost ten hours, the transit through the Panama Canal was complete. It was an amazing experience.

Day 7 – Colón, Panama

Tim and I would like to wish a very Merry Christmas to our family and friends. For us, Viking Sky is a perfect place to spend the holidays.

Merry Christmas!

Today, we docked in Colón, the entrance to the Panama Canal on the Atlantic side. As we walked off the ship, we were greeted by a group of local dancers.

Local Dancers

Tim and I had booked the included tour, “Fort San Lorenzo,” described as a visit to a “Sixteenth-Century Citadel and Modern Marvel”:

Journey through Panama’s past while touring a once-mighty fortress and witness a feat of modern engineering. You will visit the ruins of Fort San Lorenzo, a 16th-century Spanish citadel that sits at the mouth of the Chagres River, overlooking the Caribbean Sea and surrounded by 30,000 acres of protected rainforest. Learn about the fortress’s turbulent history from your guide as you explore this UNESCO World Heritage Site and admire striking views of your surroundings. Afterward, embark on a panoramic drive to view a section of the Panama Canal and hear about the history of this mighty feat of engineering. You will also learn more about its recent expansion project, one that has resulted in doubling the canal’s capacity and allowing supersized ships to pass through its waterways.

Fuerte de San Lorenzo, or Fort San Lorenzo, is an excellent example of military architecture built by the Spanish Crown between the sixteenth and eighteenth centuries. The fort’s location on a promontory overlooking the mouth of the Chagres River was part of a defensive system that protected Spain’s transatlantic trade in the New World. This fort was one of the terminals of the transcontinental route across the Isthmus of Panama.

Fort San Lorenzo

We toured the fort on our own after a brief introduction, and I especially admired the stone and brickwork.

Touring Fort Lorenzo

Fort Lorenzo's Strategic Location at the Mount of the Chagres River

Interesting Stone and Brickwork

Before and after leaving the fort, we passed a series of abandoned buildings that had been constructed as employee housing at Fort Sherman. Fort Sherman was a former military base built by the United States to protect the Panama Canal, and it was the primary defensive base for the Caribbean sector of the Canal.

Sad State of Buildings from Former Fort Sherman

Although I enjoyed the fort, I was most excited to visit our next destination, the Gatun Locks at the Panama Canal. Although our excursion didn’t include a stop at the visitor center, we did drive along the road that parallels the entrance to the original locks, as well as the locks themselves. We were also able to see the Gatun Dam, which is only visible from the road, not from the canal.

At the Gatun Locks

Gatun Dam as Viewed from the Road and the Gatun Lake

As a bonus, on our way back to Colón, our driver stopped the motorcoach on the Atlantic Bridge, which spans the canal at its northern end, and we had an outstanding view of the entrances to both sets of the Gatun Locks. The original locks were built in 1914, while the expanded locks were added in 2016 to handle the world’s increasingly larger ships. Viking Sky will pass through the original locks tomorrow.

View of Ships Exiting the Gatun Locks - The Expanded Locks Are on the Left,
and the Original Locks Are on the Right

When Tim and I returned to the ship, most passengers were still out on longer excursions. After lunch, I decided to take advantage of a mostly empty ship and did two loads of laundry. One of the nice things about Viking Ocean ships is the self-service launderettes, which are quite handy. What a way to celebrate Christmas!

This evening, Guest Lecturer Andrew Roberts concluded his trilogy on the history of the Panama Canal with “Panama Canal: Part 3 – The Panamanians.” We learned about the growing Panamanian dissent to the presence of the United States in their country and the way in which they took over the Panama Canal. I think we’re ready for our transit of the canal tomorrow.

Panama Canal: Part 3 – The Panamanians

Day 6 – Cartagena, Columbia

I had the best time in Cartagena today! I had thought I would enjoy the city after doing a bit of research before leaving home, but the city far exceeded my expectations. 

Viking Sky docked this morning adjacent to the cargo port, and it was interesting to watch the operation of the equipment that was loading containers onto a massive container ship. Luckily, only two other very small cruise ships were in port, so the city wasn’t too crowded.

Loading a Container Ship

Tim and I took separate excursions today. While he took the included “Panoramic Cartagena” tour, I had booked the “Old Cartagena by Foot” walking tour. I knew it was going to be a great day when I met Charlie, my guide, before boarding the motorcoach that would take us to Old Town. I was on a mission to purchase a particular item, and he assured me that he would help me find it. (The identity of this item will be revealed on New Year’s Day.)

The planned itinerary of my excursion was described as “A Stroll through a Colonial Treasure”:

Explore the colorful streets of Cartagena’s Ciudad Vieja, or Old Town, and admire the city’s eclectic architecture. Drive with your guide to the Old Town, built by Spanish settlers during the 16th and 17th centuries. Today, discover on foot one of the most spectacularly restored collections of colonial-era buildings in South America. See the San Felipe Fortress and admire the exterior as you enjoy a serving of tropical fruits. Next, head to the historic Getsemani neighborhood for a guided walk of this bustling district. Pause for refreshments before heading to La Marina Park for a stroll along its peaceful pathways. Browse a collection of ornamental trinkets at the nearby Gold Museum, then continue your walk past vibrantly colored houses adorned with floral balconies and beautiful churches.

Charlie provided an excellent introduction to Cartagena, which he described as the “City of the Eternal Summer.” We learned that coffee is the major export of Columbia, with fruits, vegetables, leather, flowers, and Columbian emeralds making up the remainder.

Our first stop was the Castillo de San Felipe de Barajas, an imposing fortress constructed between 1536 and 1657. The fort was built to protect Cartagena from pirates and enemies of the Spanish Crown, and its hilltop location dominated approaches to the city by land or sea. There, we were served a cup of various tropical fruits, which I enjoyed.

San Felipe Fortress

A Taste of Tropical Fruits

We then made our way to Getsemani, one of the oldest and most picturesque neighborhoods in Cartagena. Known for its colorful houses, vibrant murals, and street art, Getsemani is the one area where local families still live. During the colonial era, Getsemani was home to many of the enslaved individuals forcibly transported from Africa to the port of Cartagena.  Today, much of the street art celebrates the essence and beauty of the mostly African descendants.

Colorful and Vibrant Getsemani

We stopped for a break at a lovely hotel, where we were served several local specialties. The empanada, arepa de huevo, and corozo juice were delicious.

A Sampling of Local Specialties in a Lovely Hotel

After our welcome break, we entered the historic center of Cartagena, which is surrounded by more than six miles of defensive walls. Built in 1586 to protect the city from invading pirates and other enemies, the walls now form a central part of the identity of Cartagena. 

One distinguishing feature of this area is the unique door knockers that grace many of the old wooden doors and date back to colonial times. Door knockers were traditionally used on homes as a sign of hierarchy and social status, and it was fun to try and spot the various types, including lizards, sea creatures, and lions.

Door Knockers of Cartagena

Plaza de Santo Domingo is the oldest and busiest square in Cartagena, and we were able to visit Santo Domingo Church. A dominant element of the square is Botero’s Gorda Gertrudis sculpture.

Santo Domingo Church and Square

We continued our wander through the city, past the Palace of the Inquisition and Bolívar Square, where we found out that the Gold Museum was closed today. No problem. We just moved on to visit the Metropolitan Basilica Cathedral of Santa Catalina de Alejandría, or Cathedral of Cartagena, a Spanish Renaissance-style church with a gilded high altar and majestic tower.

Bolívar Square

Cathedral of Cartagena

I’m not sure I’ve ever seen so many street vendors in one place, selling everything from hats to fruit to paintings to beverages, including $1.00 bottles of water. “No, Gracias” became my constant reply to their entreaties.

So Many Street Vendors in Cartagena

Since we couldn’t visit the Gold Museum, Charlie arranged for us to tour both the Cloister and the Iglesia de San Pedro Claver, a church dedicated to the man whose remains are found on its main altar. San Pedro Claver was a revered man, who dedicated his life to the aid of the enslaved population, and he was the first individual to be canonized in the Western Hemisphere. 

We first visited the rooms in the cloister where San Pedro Claver spent his final days, and then we stepped inside the beautiful church. Since today is Christmas Eve, worshipers were present in every church we visited.

San Pedro Claver Cloister Rooms

San Pedro Claver Church

We left the walled city and began our journey back to Viking Sky. On the way, we drove along the city walls and passed the Clock Tower, possibly the most famous landmark in Cartagena. Built in 1601, it is the principal entrance to the old city.

Cartagena City Wall and Clock Tower

I thoroughly enjoyed this tour and was very impressed with Cartagena. Not only was Charlie an outstanding guide, but he also sent Gina, our escort, to purchase the item that I was searching for. She brought the item to me while we were enjoying our snack, and I was flabbergasted! How kind and thoughtful they both were.

Charlie, Sarah, and Gina

Returning to the ship required passengers to walk the Aviary, passing various birds and animals along the way. It’s no wonder so many people love to visit Cartagena.

Animals in the Aviary at the Port of Cartagena

Heat and humidity are not my friends, and I welcomed the air conditioning as I reboarded the ship. I’m thinking of starting a new religion that worships the god of air conditioning!

Tim and I finished another very good day with two lectures – “Panama Before the Canal” and “The Panama Canal: Part 2 – The Americans.” I’m becoming much more excited about our upcoming transit through this engineering feat.

Two Great Lectures

A special surprise awaited us when we returned to our room after dinner - a homemade panettone and a lovely note. Panettone is a traditional Italian Christmas bread studded with candied fruits and raisins and is popular around the world. It was delicious. Tim and I are delighted to be on board Viking Sky this holiday season.

A Delicious Holiday Treat

Day 5 – Sail the Caribbean Sea

The Star Theater was almost filled to capacity this morning for two excellent lectures. Guest Lecturer Andrew Roberts presented “The Panama Canal: Part 1 – The French,” in preparation for our transit through the canal on December 26. We learned how the French became involved in building a canal so far from home, why they failed, and how the Americans took over. Parts 2 and 3 will follow in the next few days.

The Panama Canal: Part 1 – The French

Since we will dock in Columbia tomorrow, I was anxious to discover a little more about this country. Our Resident Historian Dr. Robert Cribb enlightened us with the "History of Columbia,” and we learned about the turbulent background of this place.

History of Columbia

Only about 300 of the 800 or so passengers on board the Viking Sky are on the World Cruise. We will pick up the remaining World Cruise passengers in Los Angeles. Some, like Tim and me, will be sailing all the way to New York. Others will disembark in London.

Most passengers, however, are only sailing from Fort Lauderdale to Los Angeles on the “Panama Canal & Pacific Coast” itinerary, and many did not realize that this was the start of the 2024-2025 World Cruise. I’ve enjoyed meeting them, as well as our fellow world cruisers. I just wish I could remember all their names.

Day 4 – Sail the Caribbean Sea

One of the features that Tim and I appreciate about Viking is its focus on enrichment, with lectures and other activities. Presentations on the history, nature, and culture of the ports that we visit add to our appreciation and understanding of these places.

This morning, I attended our Resident Historian’s talk on “Explorers – The Age of Discovery.” Although I thought I was quite familiar with the topic, I learned something new. I was not aware how technological and political changes in Europe prior to 1492 facilitated Columbus’ voyage. The talk was also a perfect complement to last night's La Route des Indes dinner, since it was the lure of spices that spurred the rise of the Age of Exploration.

Explorers - The Age of Discovery

Enrichment activities also include an emphasis on the food and culinary traditions of our destinations. Tonight’s menu in the World Café was “A Taste of Mexico.” Although I love Mexican food, I mostly restrained myself tonight, unlike my over-indulgence at “The Taste of USA.”

I did have to sample several desserts, however, including Arroz con Leche (rice pudding), a mini-Churro (a sweet Mexican fritter rolled in cinnamon sugar), and an incredible Flan Mexicano (a creamy custard and caramel dessert). There are no food photos tonight, since I’m also trying to restrain myself from photographing the food.

Guests who have previously sailed with Viking are automatically members of the Explorer Society. Tonight, members were invited to join the Captain, Cruise Director, and Travel Consultant in marking the occasion with a celebratory toast.

Explorer Society Event

Day 3 – Cozumel, Mexico

We docked this morning in Cozumel, Mexico. Surprisingly, this is my first visit to Mexico.

Viking Sky, Docked in Cozumel

Welcome to Cozumel

Tim and I both selected the included excursion today, “The Ruins of San Gervasio,” a sacred Pre-Columbian Mayan religious site. This is the description of our tour:

Discover the ruins of a pre-Columbian Mayan religious site during a visit to San Gervasio. Located on the northeastern side of the island of Cozumel, San Gervasio is a Mayan site dedicated to Ix Chel, goddess of the moon and fertility. Mayan women would make the pilgrimage to this site and present offerings to the goddess. Take a tour of the remains of this expansive complex; today, the stone structures are missing their roofs and upper walls; and view Las Manitas (“Little Hands”), which was the residence of the Mayan ruler of Cozumel.

Moy, our excellent guide, began our excursion with an introduction to Cozumel. We learned that in 1961, famed undersea explorer Jacques Cousteau came to Cozumel and discovered the Palancar Reef, the second largest coral reef in the world. This discovery helped put Cozumel “on the map,” and today, more than 1,400 cruise ships visit each year. Luckily for us, there only appeared to be two others in port.

While we were on the motorcoach, Moy, who described himself as a mestizo, half Mayan and half Mexican, introduced us to the history of the ancient Mayan culture and prepared us for what we would be seeing at San Gervasio, a 1,000-year-old Mayan ruin in the middle of the jungle.

San Gervasio is a small, but significant, pilgrimage site, and it is thought to be one of the premier pilgrimage sites in all of Mesoamerica. Here the Maya worshiped the Goddess Ix Chel. San Gervasio became the administrative and religious center, as well as the seat of government for the entire island of Cozumel. The site consists of four primary groups and numerous residential complexes joined by a network of roads.

As we visited the structures at San Gervasio, Moy described their functions and significance. Our first stop was the Little Hands Elite Residence, thought to have been the home of the supreme ruler. The small, red handprints on the inside walls gave the building its name.

Little Hands Elite Residence

Next up was “The Arch,” which spanned the sacbé, or white road. This structure was the main entrance from the north and west to San Gervasio‘s Central Plaza Group.

"The Arch" and the White Road

We then reached the Central Plaza, the principal center in San Gervasio. The Plaza Group consists of San Gervasio’s most important temples and structures arranged in a square around a central altar platform.

The Central Plaza

Moy also demonstrated Mayan mathematics and how any number from zero to infinity could be expressed using only three symbols, the shell, a dot, and a horizontal line. He also emphasized the importance of the numbers seven and thirteen and how they are lucky numbers.

Moy Explaining Mayan Mathmatics

The tour was excellent and very informative. Afterwards, Moy then encouraged our group to go shopping. Tim and I rarely shop when we travel, but I did buy the tourist photo that was taken on our way into the site.

Our Cheesy Photo at San Gervasio

When we returned to Viking Sky, I spent a bit of time making a few more tweaks to our room. Yes, I did rearrange some of the furniture, and we have a more open area near the sliding glass door.

Our New Arrangement

Tonight, Tim and I had dinner at Chef’s Table, a specialty restaurant that features a multi-course tasting menu. Tonight’s menu was La Route des Indes described as follows:

This five-course menu had been designed to feature a variety of spices; each dish highlights one or more, allowing you to discover nuances of taste and the very essence of these amazing plant materials.

La Route des Indes Menu, With Descriptions of the Five Courses Pictured Below

Amuse Bouche, First Course, Granita, Main Course, and Dessert

The dinner was delicious, and the wine parings were perfect. Chef’s Table is one of our favorite venues.

Day 2 – Scenic Sailing: Gulf of Mexico

Sleeping in this morning felt like such a luxury after days of getting up early. Today was a sea day, and I was so happy that we could simply relax or do whatever we wished.

I hate clutter and thrive on organization. Organizing things, in fact, is rather fun for me, so I spent much of the afternoon rearranging our things and finding the perfect place for each one. One small suitcase we brought with us contained things that helped me accomplish this task. Collapsible boxes from Dollar Tree and other containers were a “must-bring” item for me.

I had also ordered slim velvet hangers and skirt hangers, which Amazon shipped to Herbert’s home. These take up a third of the space as the lovely wooden hangers Viking provides, so I was able to hang up most of our clothes.

I Love Organized Closets and Shelves

I’ll likely do a little more tweaking, but I’m mostly satisfied with how the room turned out. Most likely, I’ll rearrange the chairs and coffee table to provide a little more room.

Tim and I attended our first port talk today, where we learned about Cozumel. Chantelle, the Shore Excursion Manager, described the excursions that will be offered tomorrow. Tim and I had run into her earlier today, and she remembered us. Chantelle had taken time to sit down with us while we were on last year’s cruise and give us tips about our upcoming world cruise. I’m so happy she will be with us for the entire 180 days.

Tomorrow's Destination - Cozumel

Viking Sky presented its first destination dinner tonight – Taste of USA. There must have been a dozen or more offerings, and I think I tried tiny portions of most of them. That’s one of the things that Tim and I love about the World Café. The food was very good.

Taste of USA

When we returned to our room, we found goodies on our bed. We had been expecting, and had previously ordered, a World Cruise jacket, but we were each gifted a canvas tote bag, hat, card case, Moleskine notebook, and magnetic map showing our cruise ports-of-call.  All were embellished with the 2024-2025 World Cruise logo.  The gifts were totally unexpected, but much appreciated.

Our World Cruise Swag

Tonight was the Viking Welcome Reception, where Captain Markus presented the senior officers of the Viking Sky. Of course, we ended with a celebratory toast.

Viking Welcome Reception