Day 6 – Cartagena, Columbia

I had the best time in Cartagena today! I had thought I would enjoy the city after doing a bit of research before leaving home, but the city far exceeded my expectations. 

Viking Sky docked this morning adjacent to the cargo port, and it was interesting to watch the operation of the equipment that was loading containers onto a massive container ship. Luckily, only two other very small cruise ships were in port, so the city wasn’t too crowded.

Loading a Container Ship

Tim and I took separate excursions today. While he took the included “Panoramic Cartagena” tour, I had booked the “Old Cartagena by Foot” walking tour. I knew it was going to be a great day when I met Charlie, my guide, before boarding the motorcoach that would take us to Old Town. I was on a mission to purchase a particular item, and he assured me that he would help me find it. (The identity of this item will be revealed on New Year’s Day.)

The planned itinerary of my excursion was described as “A Stroll through a Colonial Treasure”:

Explore the colorful streets of Cartagena’s Ciudad Vieja, or Old Town, and admire the city’s eclectic architecture. Drive with your guide to the Old Town, built by Spanish settlers during the 16th and 17th centuries. Today, discover on foot one of the most spectacularly restored collections of colonial-era buildings in South America. See the San Felipe Fortress and admire the exterior as you enjoy a serving of tropical fruits. Next, head to the historic Getsemani neighborhood for a guided walk of this bustling district. Pause for refreshments before heading to La Marina Park for a stroll along its peaceful pathways. Browse a collection of ornamental trinkets at the nearby Gold Museum, then continue your walk past vibrantly colored houses adorned with floral balconies and beautiful churches.

Charlie provided an excellent introduction to Cartagena, which he described as the “City of the Eternal Summer.” We learned that coffee is the major export of Columbia, with fruits, vegetables, leather, flowers, and Columbian emeralds making up the remainder.

Our first stop was the Castillo de San Felipe de Barajas, an imposing fortress constructed between 1536 and 1657. The fort was built to protect Cartagena from pirates and enemies of the Spanish Crown, and its hilltop location dominated approaches to the city by land or sea. There, we were served a cup of various tropical fruits, which I enjoyed.

San Felipe Fortress

A Taste of Tropical Fruits

We then made our way to Getsemani, one of the oldest and most picturesque neighborhoods in Cartagena. Known for its colorful houses, vibrant murals, and street art, Getsemani is the one area where local families still live. During the colonial era, Getsemani was home to many of the enslaved individuals forcibly transported from Africa to the port of Cartagena.  Today, much of the street art celebrates the essence and beauty of the mostly African descendants.

Colorful and Vibrant Getsemani

We stopped for a break at a lovely hotel, where we were served several local specialties. The empanada, arepa de huevo, and corozo juice were delicious.

A Sampling of Local Specialties in a Lovely Hotel

After our welcome break, we entered the historic center of Cartagena, which is surrounded by more than six miles of defensive walls. Built in 1586 to protect the city from invading pirates and other enemies, the walls now form a central part of the identity of Cartagena. 

One distinguishing feature of this area is the unique door knockers that grace many of the old wooden doors and date back to colonial times. Door knockers were traditionally used on homes as a sign of hierarchy and social status, and it was fun to try and spot the various types, including lizards, sea creatures, and lions.

Door Knockers of Cartagena

Plaza de Santo Domingo is the oldest and busiest square in Cartagena, and we were able to visit Santo Domingo Church. A dominant element of the square is Botero’s Gorda Gertrudis sculpture.

Santo Domingo Church and Square

We continued our wander through the city, past the Palace of the Inquisition and Bolívar Square, where we found out that the Gold Museum was closed today. No problem. We just moved on to visit the Metropolitan Basilica Cathedral of Santa Catalina de Alejandría, or Cathedral of Cartagena, a Spanish Renaissance-style church with a gilded high altar and majestic tower.

Bolívar Square

Cathedral of Cartagena

I’m not sure I’ve ever seen so many street vendors in one place, selling everything from hats to fruit to paintings to beverages, including $1.00 bottles of water. “No, Gracias” became my constant reply to their entreaties.

So Many Street Vendors in Cartagena

Since we couldn’t visit the Gold Museum, Charlie arranged for us to tour both the Cloister and the Iglesia de San Pedro Claver, a church dedicated to the man whose remains are found on its main altar. San Pedro Claver was a revered man, who dedicated his life to the aid of the enslaved population, and he was the first individual to be canonized in the Western Hemisphere. 

We first visited the rooms in the cloister where San Pedro Claver spent his final days, and then we stepped inside the beautiful church. Since today is Christmas Eve, worshipers were present in every church we visited.

San Pedro Claver Cloister Rooms

San Pedro Claver Church

We left the walled city and began our journey back to Viking Sky. On the way, we drove along the city walls and passed the Clock Tower, possibly the most famous landmark in Cartagena. Built in 1601, it is the principal entrance to the old city.

Cartagena City Wall and Clock Tower

I thoroughly enjoyed this tour and was very impressed with Cartagena. Not only was Charlie an outstanding guide, but he also sent Gina, our escort, to purchase the item that I was searching for. She brought the item to me while we were enjoying our snack, and I was flabbergasted! How kind and thoughtful they both were.

Charlie, Sarah, and Gina

Returning to the ship required passengers to walk the Aviary, passing various birds and animals along the way. It’s no wonder so many people love to visit Cartagena.

Animals in the Aviary at the Port of Cartagena

Heat and humidity are not my friends, and I welcomed the air conditioning as I reboarded the ship. I’m thinking of starting a new religion that worships the god of air conditioning!

Tim and I finished another very good day with two lectures – “Panama Before the Canal” and “The Panama Canal: Part 2 – The Americans.” I’m becoming much more excited about our upcoming transit through this engineering feat.

Two Great Lectures

A special surprise awaited us when we returned to our room after dinner - a homemade panettone and a lovely note. Panettone is a traditional Italian Christmas bread studded with candied fruits and raisins and is popular around the world. It was delicious. Tim and I are delighted to be on board Viking Sky this holiday season.

A Delicious Holiday Treat