Sunday, August 28, 2022

Saint Croix Island International Historic Site

Saint Croix Island International Historic Site, located on an island in the Saint Croix River between Canada and the United States, is one of the lesser-known National Park Service units. The park commemorates the earliest attempt at French colonization of North America.

 According to the park’s mission statement:

The National Park Service preserves Saint Croix Island IHS as a monument to the beginning of the United States and Canada. It was here that Pierre Dugua Sieur de Mons with his company of 78 men established a French settlement in 1604-05. In cooperation with Parks Canada, the National Park Service educates the public about that heroic effort, its context, and its consequences.

This attempt to colonize the territory the French called l'Acadie, was an ill-fated one. The men spent the winter iced in and cut off from fresh water and game, and 35 settlers died. After the return of their ships from France, Dugua moved the colony, founding the settlement of Port Royal, in today's Nova Scotia.

There is no public access to Saint Croix Island, but the mainland offers a short interpretive trail with bronze statues and a model that tell the story of the 1604 settlement, with a view of the island at the end of the walk.

Bronze Statues Help to Tell the Story

Along the Interpretive Trail

Imagining the Settlement

A View of Saint Croix Island

Saturday, August 27, 2022

St. Andrews-by-the-Sea

St. Andrews is a picturesque town on Passamaquoddy Bay and is considered to be Canada’s first seaside resort town. Established in1783 by Loyalists fleeing the American Revolution from Castine, Maine, St. Andrews contains an impressive collection of beautifully preserved eighteenth and nineteenth century buildings. 

The Algonquin Resort is one of Canada’s grand, historic hotels. Rebuilt in 1915 after a fire destroyed the original 1889 structure, the Algonquin is distinguished by its Tudor Revival style architecture and red roof. The hotel has become the symbol of St. Andrews, and I’m so glad that we stayed here. 

The Algonquin Resort - Our Rooms Had Water Views

I had suggested Tim Hortons, home of Canada’s favorite coffee, for breakfast, forgetting that it was a fast-food restaurant. The coffee was great though. Blue skies were peeking out from the clouds, so Noreen, Mike, and I decided to walk toward the waterfront. The tide was out, and we learned that the tides here may rise and fall up to 28 feet two times a day.

Along the St. Andrews Waterfront at Different Times of Day

We happened upon the St. Andrews Blockhouse National Historic Site, built during the War of 1812, and then walked along the downtown streets. Mike and I continued our tour after Noreen returned to the hotel, and we discovered even more historic buildings.

St. Andrews Blockhouse

Sights Around St. Andrews

I wanted to find the Pansy Patch, a quaint inn where my mother and I stayed during our Canadian Maritime road trip in 1992. My mother struck up a friendship with the owner, and her standard poodle Cadbury, that continued for years. I had forgotten that the inn is right across the street from the Algonquin, and it was just as cute as ever.

Pansy Patch, Partially Hidden by the Trees

Before too long, the hills and heat got to me, and I had to drag myself back to my room. I was relieved when Noreen suggested we take a break today. It was just what I needed. We returned to the waterfront for an early dinner, and it was so pleasant to sit outside and enjoy the lovely view. Returning to St. Andrews was a great idea.

Mike and Noreen

Friday, August 26, 2022

Crossing into Canada

After another fabulous breakfast at the inn, we loaded the car for the drive to Canada. The addition of Canada to a national park road trip is quite simple. Roosevelt Campobello International Park is an affiliated area of both the National Park Service and Parks Canada. Located on Campobello Island, off the coast of Maine and just across the international border into New Brunswick, Canada, the park preserves the summer retreat of Franklin D. Roosevelt's family.

In order to cross the border into Canada, we were required to provide mandatory travel information, including COVID-19 proof of vaccination, on the ArriveCAN app. We must have done everything correctly because we breezed through Canadian Customs.  

A Foggy Welcome to Canada

It was very foggy when we arrived in Canada, but the fog had partly cleared by the time we reached Roosevelt Campobello International Park. We explored the exhibits at the visitor center and then took a guided tour of FDRs summer cottage. FDRs parents built this home in 1897, and FDR spent summers here as a child. After he and Eleanor married, it became their summer retreat. The house contains 34 rooms and has been restored to its condition in 1920.

Roosevelt Campobello International Park

FDRs Summer Cottage

Touring the Cottage

The Hubbard Cottage and Prince Cottage, both built in the late nineteenth century, are also in the park, and we had a delightful lunch at the Prince Café. I admired the flower beds throughout the property and gave my compliments to the gardener.

Hubbard Cottage

Prince Cottage and Café

The Flowers Added a Colorful Note to a Dreary Day

After leaving the park, we had to make our way to St. Andrews, our destination for the evening. The fastest and most scenic route involved two ferries. We crossed Campobello Island and waited on the shore for the ferry to Deer Island. This private, toll ferry was much smaller than I had anticipated, but we crossed Passamaquoddy Bay with no problem. The only problem was the fog. It may have been a scenic ride, but we couldn’t see a thing.

M.V. "Island Hopper" Ferry

The second ferry from Deer Island to Letete, New Brunswick, was a bit larger, and free, but the visibility, or lack thereof, was the same. I’m sure it would have been a beautiful ride.

"Deer Island Princess II" Ferry

We arrived in St. Andrews and checked into the Algonquin Resort, a beautiful, historic property. I decided to wait until tomorrow to take photographs. Hopefully, the weather will improve.

Thursday, August 25, 2022

Acadia National Park

It is impossible to see Acadia National Park in one day. Luckily, Noreen and I have been there on multiple occasions, but we wanted Mike to get see as much as possible. The Park Loop Road passes many of the park’s natural attractions, so we started there after a fabulous breakfast at the inn.

We stopped at the main visitor center and then at Thunder Hole. Here, as wind-driven tides sweep into a narrow channel, air becomes trapped and escapes with a thunderous roar. That’s always fun to see and hear. As we continued along the Loop Road, we had beautiful views of Frenchman Bay.

I Always Try to Get a Photograph of Every National Park Sign

The Rocky Shoreline Along Frenchman Bay

Beautiful Views Along the Park Loop Road 

Since we hadn’t planned to go hiking, my best idea for getting away from the crowds was to take a carriage ride. I had taken one years ago and remembered it as a way to experience one of the park’s picturesque features. Because John D. Rockefeller, Jr., who became one of the park’s benefactors, wanted to travel on car-less roads into the heart of Mount Desert Island, he worked with engineers to design 45 miles of roads that follow the contours of the land and take advantage of scenic views. Today, these roads are viewed as the best and most extensive network of broken stone carriage roads in the country.

Noreen and Mike were up for a carriage ride, and we were able to book the two-hour “Mr. Rockefeller’s Bridge Tour.” As we circled Day Mountain and meandered in out of the woods, we were able to see three remarkable bridges, another unique feature of the carriage road network. Rockefeller financed 16 stone-faced bridges to span streams, waterfalls, and roads, and each bridge is unique in its design. We also passed the Jordan Pond Gate House, one of two gate lodges that serve as impressive entrances to the network.

Our Carriage

The Lovely and Peaceful Carriage Roads

Each Bridge Is Unique

Bridge Details

Jordan Pond Gate House

I wanted to stop at Jordan Pond, one of the prettiest places in the park, but finding a parking space was impossible. Instead, Noreen dropped Michael and me off. He was able to appreciate the view from afar, and I was able to get my passport stamp. I should mention that I also collect National Park passport stamps, and Acadia has nine locations. Noreen and Mike were determined to get me to every one of them!

Jordan Pond and the Bubbles

I had planned to end our day at the summit of Cadillac Mountain, the highest peak in the park with to-die-for views. Reservations were required to drive the road, so I had reserved a time on Recreation.gov. When we reached the entrance station, the ranger couldn’t find my reservation. Somehow, I had made it for the wrong day! Ugh! I was so bummed that we wouldn’t be driving to the summit today.

Instead, we drove back to the inn, relaxed for a while, and headed to the harbor for a fabulous seafood dinner.

Noreen and Mike

The Waterfront in Bar Harbor

A Sunset Cruise Would Have Been Nice!

Wednesday, August 24, 2022

Augusta and Mount Desert Island

We thanked Steve and hit the road this morning for Augusta. Augusta? Why Augusta? In addition to visiting as many National Park Service units as possible, I’m also trying to visit state capitol buildings. Noreen and Mike seem to be fine with wherever I want to go, so we stopped at the Maine State House for a quick visit.

The original State House was designed by renowned architect Charles Bulfinch in 1832, and it is based on his plans for the Massachusetts State House. The building acquired its present form when it was extensively redesigned and expanded in 1910. We toured the capitol on our own before getting back on the road.

Maine State House

We arrived in DownEast Maine in the afternoon and made a stop at the Island Information Center for brochures and maps before crossing the bridge to Mount Desert Island, where Acadia National Park is located. For those who may not know, DownEast refers to the state’s easternmost regions. 

We drove to Bar Harbor and checked into the Elmhurst Inn, located in a quiet residential neighborhood within walking distance of downtown. The inn is a lovely Victorian era building, and our suite is perfect for the three of us. We enjoyed afternoon lemonade and cookies and took a break before venturing downtown for dinner.

I completely forgot to take photographs of the inn, so I’m borrowing ones from the inn’s website.

Elmhurst Inn - Breakfast Room, Inn, Carriage House, and Our Suite
(Photos Courtesy of the Elmhurst Inn) 

Tuesday, August 23, 2022

Welcome to Maine

Noreen and I were so glad that we had picked this week to travel instead of earlier in the month when Maine was suffering through an unprecedented heatwave. The timing also allowed me to complete the process for another dental implant. Dental bills are killing me! I’d much rather spend that money on travel!

I had to get up really early this morning so Tim could drive me to the Fort Collins airport, where I boarded a motorcoach at 5:50 am for the trip to Denver International Airport. I love the fact that United Airlines has partnered with Landline so the bus trip is part of a United reservation.

I had a few hours until my flight departed from Denver, so I decided to take advantage of one of the perks of our Chase Sapphire Reserve credit card – Priority Pass membership. Although Priority Pass is best known for its network of airport lounges, it also includes restaurants in some locations. Denver doesn’t have a lounge, but it does have a restaurant. SweetWater Mountain Taphouse was a perfect place for a nice breakfast, and the fact that it only cost the price of a tip made it even better.

My flight was uneventful, and Noreen and Mike picked me up at the Portland airport. They arrived yesterday, and we are staying with our friend Steve. Tonight, he hosted a large party at his beautiful home, and I met several interesting people. Near the end of the evening, Maine’s governor showed up. It was quite interesting to see her sit back and relax and hear how her campaign for reelection was going.

Thanks Steve

Friday, July 29, 2022

Planning the Trip to Maine

I’ve spent the last few weeks planning next month’s trip to Maine with Noreen and Mike. I have been to Acadia National Park, in addition to most of coastal Maine, on many occasions, but the rest of the state will be mostly new territory for me. We decided to start the trip on August 23 and spend a week exploring.

Selecting accommodations for three people was a bit more challenging, however. Although I could have simply chosen two rooms in whichever place we were staying, I tried to look for other options and ended up being quite successful. I found a lovely inn in Bar Harbor with a suite in its carriage house. A sitting room with two separate bedrooms was exactly what I was looking for. That would make it much easier to get together in a common living space.

A visit to Roosevelt Campobello International Park just over the border in Canada meant that we would be very close to the pretty town of St. Andrews, New Brunswick, and Noreen agreed that it would be fun to stay there. There were several options available, but Noreen was the one who made the final decision to stay at the Algonquin Resort, a grand historic hotel. Two rooms were the only option here, but that would be an okay tradeoff.

Finding a place to stay near Katahdin Woods and Waters National Monument was the most difficult. I looked on every site I could think of and only came up with ordinary motel-type facilities. Then, by some fluke, I discovered the New England Outdoor Center (NEOC). The name didn’t even sound like it offered lodging, but it most certainly did. Fully equipped, lakeside cabins with multiple bedrooms and all amenities, including a restaurant, sounded perfect – the perfect Maine getaway.

I made reservations at all the properties and booked my flights. I decided to “fly” out of Fort Collins so Tim wouldn’t have to drive me to the Denver airport. Finally, I mapped out our tentative route, which was quite easy, since there were few options to connect the places we were scheduled to visit. The trip planning was complete.

Maine National Parks Trip Route Map