Day 13 – Sail the Pacific Ocean

Happy New Year's Eve everyone!

Tim and I enjoyed a lovely sunset that closed out 2024, and we both agreed that it was a very good year.

The Last Sunset of 2024

Viking Sky was in the New Year’s Eve spirit by dinner time, and the festivities only increased as the evening progressed.

The Ship was Decorated for New Year's Eve

Tim and I joined in celebrating at the Living Room bar, and even the ship’s officers were in a festive mood.

Celebrating the Eve of a New Year

Several of the Officers Were Also in a Festive Mood

I can’t remember the last time that Tim and I made it to midnight, but I did manage to stop by the New Year’s Eve Celebration & Dancing Under the Stars for a very brief time. And, no, I did not dance!

Dancing Under the Stars

Even though we set our clocks back one hour tonight and we gain an extra hour, I’m ready to call it a night. Besides, it’s twelve o’clock somewhere!

Day 12 – Sail the Pacific Ocean

I could get used to these lazy mornings, although I am certainly looking forward to visiting the many ports on our itinerary.

The World Café presented another culinary event for lunch today. This one featured a Cioppino Station, one of Tim’s favorite dishes.

Cioppino Station

Although I missed Guest Lecturer Andrew Roberts’ morning lecture on “The Railroad that Went to Sea,” I was able to watch it this afternoon on our stateroom TV. That is such a convenient feature that Viking offers. All lectures and port talks are recorded, and you can either watch them live, from the comfort of your room, or at your convenience.

The lecture brought me back to Miami again and refreshed my memory of why Henry Flagler extended his Florida East Coast Railway, also known as the Overseas Railroad, to Key West. Unfortunately, the Labor Day Hurricane of 1935 partially destroyed the railroad, and it was never rebuilt.

The Railroad that Went to Sea

Another handy thing that Viking provides is the Viking Daily, a newsletter that is delivered to our stateroom every evening at turndown. The Daily, which is also available on the Viking Voyager App, provides a complete listing of all activities for the following day, as well as meeting times for excursions and other general announcements.

The Viking Daily

Complete Listing of All Daily Activities

Tim and I dined again at the Chef’s Table, and tonight’s menu was Lotus, described as follows:

A five-course gastronomic journey of traditional Asian dishes.

Lotus Menu, With Descriptions of the Five Courses Pictured Below

Amuse Bouche, First Course, Granita, Main Course, and Dessert

Tim and I had never tried this menu, and it was delicious. Although I loved all five courses, the Chili Soft Shell Crab was one of the best things I’ve ever eaten. Growing up in Baltimore, Maryland, I had soft-shell crabs from time to time. However, they were nothing like the one I had tonight!

The evening was also special because we happened to sit next to Bill and Cathy. We had a wonderful conversation and look forward to seeing more of them during the next six months.

Day 11 – Sail the Pacific Ocean

Tim and I slept very late this morning and missed breakfast in the World Café. So, instead, we enjoyed waffles at Mamsen’s, Viking’s Norwegian deli.

I Should Have Remembered to Take the Photo Before Taking a Bite!

I was determined to bring the blog up to date, so that’s how I spent much of my day. I enjoy writing blog posts, at least most of the time, but I try to fit writing in among the activities that interest me. I’m not a crafter, card or game player, or trivia aficionado, so I’m not missing out on those pursuits. I do love the lectures, and I also enjoy reading, chatting with friends, and just relaxing, so that’s what I tend to do on sea days.

Sea days are also my time to do what I want to do, sleep late, catch up on chores or the blog, and decompress. As one passenger said to me, “Sea days are therapeutic.”

Tim and I did attend another excellent lecture this evening. Guest Lecturer Andrew Roberts continued his talks on the Panama Canal, this time on “Water or the Lack of It!”. He explained why world trade faltered last winter when a drought hit Panama and what is being done to avoid a repetition. He also revealed that Viking Sky’s toll for transiting the canal was $189,344. Wow!

Panama Canal - Water or the Lack of It!

Day 10 – Puntarenas, Costa Rica

Viking Sky docked in Costa Rica this morning, and Tim and I prepared to take different excursions. Tim was taking the “Jungle Boat & Crocodile Safari,” and he was hoping these amazing reptiles would be active today.

I had booked “A Walk in the Clouds” to explore the cloud forest along suspended aerial walkways. However, just ten minutes or so before it was time to board my motorcoach, I reluctantly concluded that it would be more advisable for me to stay on the ship to be close to certain ”facilities.” I didn’t want to tempt fate and humiliate myself by being on a two-hour bus ride. That decision turned out to be a very wise one – disappointing, but wise!

Instead of touring, I spent the morning working on the blog and then enjoying a Viking burger and fries at the Pool Grill for lunch.

A walk into Puntarenas occupied an hour or so of my afternoon, and I discovered a few historic buildings as I walked around the town. Puntarenas was founded in the early nineteenth century and quickly became a hub for commerce and transportation. Today, it is one of the largest fishing ports in Costa Rica and a popular destination for tourists. In 1940, Puntarenas became known as the National Bathing Resort because most of the inhabitants of Costa Rica traveled here to enjoy the sun and beach.

Welcome to Puntarenas

The Beach Is Still Popular

As I walked down the Paseo de los Turistas, the pedestrian boulevard along the beach, I spotted an interesting Art Deco-style structure. I later found out that building was constructed in 1938 as the Customs Office of Puntarenas. Abandoned in the late 1970s, it became the home of the Pacific headquarters of the National Technical University in 2009.

The Former Customs Office of Puntarenas

I headed farther into the city to visit the church that had been mentioned to us in yesterday’s Port Talk. Our Lady of Mount Carmel Cathedral, or Puntarenas Cathedral, was built in 1902. This stone church is the only cathedral in Costa Rica that has its main entrance facing west.

Puntarenas Cathedral

Near the cathedral I saw the original command center, barracks, and jail for the Guardia Civil, which was founded as a national police force. The building was transferred to the Ministry of Culture in 1977 and now serves as a cultural center for the city.

The Former Guardia Civil Command Center

Art is important in Puntarenas, and I passed by several stone sculptures on the cathedral boulevard. Street art also seems to be popular here.

Interesting Sculptures

And Street Art

On my way back to the ship, I did check out the shopping area that caters to tourists. Textiles, woodcarvings, and lots of souvenir items made by locals were plentiful, but there was also a vendor selling fresh fish.

Lots of Souvenir Possibilities, and Fish

Tim returned later from his jungle boat adventure, and I was happy to learn that he had seen crocodiles.

A Crocodile Sighting

Tonight’s special event was a Viking BBQ on the pool deck with entertainment by Paolo, our guitarist. Every type of barbeque was available, and I sampled a bit of each type. Another delicious meal.

Viking BBQ

Day 9 – Sail the Pacific Ocean

Today was a sea day, as we sailed the Pacific Ocean, occasionally catching a view of the coast of Panama in the distance.

I was up a little earlier than usual for a sea day and was able to make it to the first lecture of the morning. “The Long Way Home – The Global Navigation of the Pacific Clipper” by Guest Lecturer Ben Rich. This was the amazing story of a pilot who navigated ”the long way home” to New York after being trapped in New Zealand following the Pearl Harbor attack.

Pacific Clipper Around the World - The Long Way Home

Not only was this tale fascinating, but I especially enjoyed how it related to my connection with the famous Pan American Clippers, or flying boats. My first project when I was hired by the City of Miami was the preparation of a historical research study of the Pan American Seaplane Base and Terminal Building at Dinner Key for the America’s City Halls project. Pan Am established a base for its Clippers here in 1931, and its final flight took place in 1945. The terminal building was adapted for use as Miami’s City Hall in 1954.

Pan American Seaplane Base at Dinner Key, Miami, Florida

Sea days are also the perfect opportunity to catch up on blog posts, since I’m typically behind in posting. While I’m writing, however, I sometimes fall into rabbit holes when I want to learn more about a topic that’s of particular interest to me. Given my architectural history background, I started researching the story behind the buildings of the Panama Canal, and this entertained me for hours. No wonder I can’t finish blog posts on time!

For anyone else that’s interested, I learned that in 1912, Austin W. Lord, head of the Department of Architecture at Columbia University, was hired as the architect for the Isthmian Canal Commission by Colonel George Goethals, chief engineer for the construction of the waterway. Lord’s task was to work out a general theme in which all buildings “from Toro Point to Taboga Island would be of a prevailing style.”

Lord initially referred to the style he decided upon as a “modification of the Spanish Renaissance.” Later, he would add that these buildings had a “decidedly Italianate” type of architecture. Italianate is the architectural style that we use today, although these are much simpler in design than is typical. This was due in part to Goethals’ insistence on efficiency and savings and preference for concrete as a building material.

Lord was terminated in 1913, but not before he had developed the plans for the Administration Building, as well as the control houses at the three locks. Lord set the standard for the next generation of Panama Canal Zone architects to follow.

Although we never saw the Administration Building, we did have great views of the three control houses, which are said to be the most photographed structures in Panama. In fact, these control houses, with their red tile roofs, reinforced concrete construction, and arched gates, are an emblem of both the canal and Panama itself. We were also able to see three other structures around the Gatun Locks that reflect the same architectural theme.

A Few Buildings of the Panama Canal

Tim and I attended another informative lecture this evening by Resident Historian Dr. Robert Cribb. “New World Civilizations” explored the rich empires of the Maya, Aztec, and Inca prior to the arrival of Columbus. I was happy that Tim, who is an archeologist, agreed with Dr. Cribb’s presentation.

New World Civilizations - The Americas Before Columbus

The World Café featured another culinary event tonight, and this one was “Taste of South America.” Although I enjoyed everything I tried, I was especially fond of the desserts.

Taste of South America - Desserts

Day 8 – Panama Canal

When I made my way to the Sky Lounge this morning, Viking Sky had just sailed under the Atlantic Bridge, which we had driven across yesterday. We were waiting to pass through the Gatun Locks and into the Panama Canal. Neither Tim nor I had ever been through the canal, and we were excited to make what would prove to be a memorable journey.

The Atlantic Bridge Under Threatening Skies

The Panama Canal is about 48 miles long and crosses the Isthmus of Panama at its narrowest stretch, thereby connecting the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. Locks at the Atlantic side lift ships 85 feet to Gatun Lake, while locks at the Pacific end then lower the ships to sea level. The Panama Canal is one of the largest and most complex engineering projects ever undertaken.

A French company was the first to attempt the construction of a canal, beginning in 1881, but its efforts were unsuccessful. The United States took over the project in 1904 and opened the canal in 1914. The Unites States continued to control the canal and surrounding Panama Canal Zone until its handover to Panama in 1977. The Panamanian government assumed full control in 1999.

The Panama Canal is the only place in the world where a ship's master gives full command to the Panama Canal Authority pilot. Mules and tugs are used to guide ships through the canal locks. Tugboats pull, or push, ships through the lock's entry using a tow line. Electric locomotives, or mules, run along the lock walls to keep ships centered in the locks.

I was perhaps most excited to go through the Gatun Locks, since this was all new to me. The Gatun Locks, a three-stage flight of locks, lifted us to the level of Gatun Lake, about 87 feet above sea level. Despite a brief rain shower, the weather mostly cooperated for us, and it wasn’t even too hot and humid on deck. I stayed outside for this entire transit and then finally moved to the World Café for breakfast as we sailed into the massive Gatun Lake.

In and Out of the Gatun Locks

Looking Back toward the Atlantic Bridge While in the Gatun Locks

Tugs and Electric Locomotives, or Mules, Helped to Guide Our Ship

The Only Photo I Took of Gatun Lake

While we were crossing Gatun Lake, I took a break from the canal. Before long, it was lunchtime, where the World Café was hosting a Caesar Salad Station. Shore Excursion Manager Chantelle and her Assistant had been roped into helping serve the salad.

A Yummy Caesar Salad, Mine with Salmon

In the afternoon, we entered the Chagres River and then passed through the Culebra Cut, which slices through the Andes Mountains and crosses the Continental Divide. We could see the terraces along the banks of the canal, a method that helps prevent landslides, as we sailed under the Centennial Bridge.

Approaching the Centennial Bridge - Note the Terraces along the Banks

As we neared the end of our journey, we entered the Pedro Miguel Lock, which lowered us 30 feet to Miraflores Lake.

Pedro Miguel Lock

I wasn’t expecting to reach the two-stage Miraflores Locks so quickly, and I was in our room when we approached the locks. So, I watched the initial passage on the Bridge Cam, which provided a great view. I did manage to get out on deck to watch as we were lowered to sea level and as the final lock opened.

Entering the Miraflores Locks

In the Miraflores Locks

Getting Ready to Exit the Miraflores Locks

We knew that we had almost reached the Pacific Ocean when we sailed under the Bridge of the Americas. We could see the Panama City skyline in the distance, as well as Frank Gehry's Biodiversity Museum, a structure that I had been looking forward to seeing.

Getting Ready to Sail Under the Bridge of the Americas

Panama City Skyline and Frank Gehry's Biodiversity Museum

Into the Pacific Ocean, with a Lineup of Ships Waiting to Transit the Canal

After almost ten hours, the transit through the Panama Canal was complete. It was an amazing experience.

Day 7 – Colón, Panama

Tim and I would like to wish a very Merry Christmas to our family and friends. For us, Viking Sky is a perfect place to spend the holidays.

Merry Christmas!

Today, we docked in Colón, the entrance to the Panama Canal on the Atlantic side. As we walked off the ship, we were greeted by a group of local dancers.

Local Dancers

Tim and I had booked the included tour, “Fort San Lorenzo,” described as a visit to a “Sixteenth-Century Citadel and Modern Marvel”:

Journey through Panama’s past while touring a once-mighty fortress and witness a feat of modern engineering. You will visit the ruins of Fort San Lorenzo, a 16th-century Spanish citadel that sits at the mouth of the Chagres River, overlooking the Caribbean Sea and surrounded by 30,000 acres of protected rainforest. Learn about the fortress’s turbulent history from your guide as you explore this UNESCO World Heritage Site and admire striking views of your surroundings. Afterward, embark on a panoramic drive to view a section of the Panama Canal and hear about the history of this mighty feat of engineering. You will also learn more about its recent expansion project, one that has resulted in doubling the canal’s capacity and allowing supersized ships to pass through its waterways.

Fuerte de San Lorenzo, or Fort San Lorenzo, is an excellent example of military architecture built by the Spanish Crown between the sixteenth and eighteenth centuries. The fort’s location on a promontory overlooking the mouth of the Chagres River was part of a defensive system that protected Spain’s transatlantic trade in the New World. This fort was one of the terminals of the transcontinental route across the Isthmus of Panama.

Fort San Lorenzo

We toured the fort on our own after a brief introduction, and I especially admired the stone and brickwork.

Touring Fort Lorenzo

Fort Lorenzo's Strategic Location at the Mount of the Chagres River

Interesting Stone and Brickwork

Before and after leaving the fort, we passed a series of abandoned buildings that had been constructed as employee housing at Fort Sherman. Fort Sherman was a former military base built by the United States to protect the Panama Canal, and it was the primary defensive base for the Caribbean sector of the Canal.

Sad State of Buildings from Former Fort Sherman

Although I enjoyed the fort, I was most excited to visit our next destination, the Gatun Locks at the Panama Canal. Although our excursion didn’t include a stop at the visitor center, we did drive along the road that parallels the entrance to the original locks, as well as the locks themselves. We were also able to see the Gatun Dam, which is only visible from the road, not from the canal.

At the Gatun Locks

Gatun Dam as Viewed from the Road and the Gatun Lake

As a bonus, on our way back to Colón, our driver stopped the motorcoach on the Atlantic Bridge, which spans the canal at its northern end, and we had an outstanding view of the entrances to both sets of the Gatun Locks. The original locks were built in 1914, while the expanded locks were added in 2016 to handle the world’s increasingly larger ships. Viking Sky will pass through the original locks tomorrow.

View of Ships Exiting the Gatun Locks - The Expanded Locks Are on the Left,
and the Original Locks Are on the Right

When Tim and I returned to the ship, most passengers were still out on longer excursions. After lunch, I decided to take advantage of a mostly empty ship and did two loads of laundry. One of the nice things about Viking Ocean ships is the self-service launderettes, which are quite handy. What a way to celebrate Christmas!

This evening, Guest Lecturer Andrew Roberts concluded his trilogy on the history of the Panama Canal with “Panama Canal: Part 3 – The Panamanians.” We learned about the growing Panamanian dissent to the presence of the United States in their country and the way in which they took over the Panama Canal. I think we’re ready for our transit of the canal tomorrow.

Panama Canal: Part 3 – The Panamanians