Tuesday, May 24, 2022

Gdańsk, City of Solidarity

Tim and I had hoped to take an optional tour in Gdańsk, but the one we wanted had been sold out when we were booking excursions. Luckily, once we were on the ship, two vacancies opened, and we were able to sign up for the “Gdańsk, City of Solidarity” tour.

Visiting the European Solidarity Center was important to me, especially when thinking about the recent invasion of Ukraine by Russia. The Solidarity Center celebrates the movement and the victory that was achieved peacefully thanks to the power of people uniting. The center opened in 2014 and quickly gained international recognition, picking up the prestigious Council of Europe Museum prize in 2016.

We began our tour at Solidarity Square where our guide explained the history and significance of the site. The Monument to the Fallen Shipyard Workers dominates the square, commemorating the death of participants in workers' protests in December 1970. On the lower parts of the three crosses are ten bas-reliefs that depict shipyard workers at work, as well as allegorical scenes referring to national solidarity and the struggle of Polish society against the communist regime.

Solidarity Square and Monument to the Fallen Shipyard Workers 

Monument to the Fallen Shipyard Workers - Bas Relief Panels

Nearby is the historic Gate No. 2 to the Gdańsk Shipyard, formerly known as the Lenin Shipyards, through which the shipyard workers emerged that December day and were then killed.

Gate No. 2 to the Gdańsk Shipyard

The Solidarity Center features a permanent exhibition dedicated to the history of Solidarity and the opposition, which led to the democratic transformation of the countries of Central and Eastern Europe. The exhibits came to life for us due to our amazing guide. She was able to provide first-hand experiences of those days and interpret what we were seeing.

Our Guide Made the Permanent Exhibits Come Alive

Following our tour of the center, we headed to Gdańsk’s historic center for a tour of the main sites. We discovered that Old Town Gdańsk is a picturesque and delightful place to visit. The red brick public buildings and the narrow, colorful facades are like eye-candy. Our tour through the cobblestone streets revealed one stunning sight after another.

Our introduction to the town began on the bridge crossing the Motlawa River. Here we gazed at the medieval townhouses along the waterfront, as well as the massive Crane at the far end. In front of us was the gorgeous Green Gate with its four arched openings that led to the Royal Way.

View Along the Waterfront

Great Spot for a Photo Op

The Green Gate

The Royal Way is the main promenade in Gdańsk and is lined with striking facades and the Main Town Hall. A centerpiece along the Royal Way is the statue of Neptune, one of Gdańsk’s most important landmarks. Cafes and shops line the thoroughfare, and it is a meeting place for both locals and tourists.

The Royal Way

The Royal Way

The Statue of Neptune

We also explored Mariacka Street, and I was particularly impressed with the rich architectural details on many of the houses in town. I especially loved the gargoyles. Along the street is St. Mary’s Cathedral, a medieval marvel and one of the largest brick churches in the world, and we were able to go inside. The interior was beautiful, but what really caught my attention was the astronomical clock, supposedly the biggest wooden clock in the world.

Wonderful Architectural Details

St. Mary's Cathedral

We had plenty of time on our own to further explore the town and to grab a bite of lunch. It was then time to head back to our ship – by boat! We sailed past the shipyard and ended up at the Westerplatte Monument, a war memorial to the defenders of the coast. Tim and I climbed to the monument and gazed down at the harbor, where Viking Venus was waiting for us.

Westerplatte Monument

Viking Venus Waiting for Us

Monday, May 23, 2022

Sailing the Baltic Sea

Because of the change in itinerary, our only sea day came early in our cruise. I didn’t mind since I still wasn’t feeling 100%. It was a perfect day to take a break, gaze out at the Baltic Sea, and enjoy another beautiful sunset.

A Little Too Chilly to Sit on the Balcony

Staring at the Sea Can be Mesmerizing

Another Beautiful Sunset

Sunday, May 22, 2022

Panoramic Mariehamn

Today we visited a new port for Viking, added after St. Petersburg and two other cities were eliminated from our itinerary. I was not familiar with Mariehamn but learned that this Swedish-speaking city is the capital of Åland, an autonomous territory under Finnish sovereignty.

In Mariehamn, we took another panoramic tour and were treated to glimpses of the island as we drove along Järsö Road, one of the most beautiful roads in Åland. It was cool having the sea on both sides as we rode over the bridges between the islands.

Along Järsö Road

Along Järsö Road

Our first stop was Jomala Church. Dating from 1260-1280, the church is probably the oldest Christian church in Finland, although it was expanded in the nineteenth century. Built of local red granite and limestone, the church is dedicated to King Olaf II of Norway, patron saint of the Åland and Jomala Islands. We had time to wander through the cemetery and admire the ancient headstones.

Jomala Church

Jomala Church Cemetery

We next spent time in central Mariehamn’s Maritime Quarter, a living marine center and museum area with a boat-building yard and traditional handicrafts. We wandered around the area and admired the tall ships docked there.

Tim at the Maritime Quarter

The Maritime Quarter

The Maritime Quarter

Admiring the Ships

Finally, we marveled at the views over Åland’s archipelago from Badhusberget, a picturesque hillside more than 130 feet above sea level. It was then time to head back to the ship.

High Above the Sea

Back at the Ship

Tim and I enjoyed a lovely meal in The Restaurant as we sailed from Mariehamn. We even caught a glimpse of Kobba Klintar, a historic pilot house that has been restored. Later, we ended our evening with a gorgeous sunset.

Ready for a Delicious Dinner

Kobba Klintar

A Beautiful Sunset

Saturday, May 21, 2022

Panoramic Stockholm

Our first order of business this morning was to spit into a vial. Viking is performing daily PCR tests onboard, so this will be our routine each day. I have no problem with this requirement and am happy that Viking is trying to keep us safe.

Viking includes one tour in every port, and Tim and I had signed up for the Panoramic Stockholm tour. Although most people are not fans of motorcoach tours, and I’m not crazy about them, I do find that an overview tour is helpful for getting a sense of the city or region we are visiting.

We also knew that many of the optional tours went to destinations we had already visited on our own, such as the Vasa Museum, so this tour seemed to work for us.

Out tour covered many parts of Stockholm we had not previously seen, and we were able to check out many of its most famous landmarks. I also appreciated the commentary from our guide and learned more about the history of Stockholm, as well as Swedish life and culture.

Central Station (We Arrived There by Train from the Airport)

We drove through Skeppsholmen island, where we got out for photo ops The views overlooking the water towards Gamla Stan were fabulous. It was also a perfect spot to view the Royal Palace.

Looking Towards Gamla Stan

Perfect Spot for a Photo Op

The Royal Palace

We saw the Moderna Musset’s sculpture park with works by Niki de Saint Phalle, which was delightful. I remember owning a bottle of her perfume when I was younger and loved her whimsical designs even then.

A Peek at the Moderna Musset's Sculpture Park

I was especially glad that we were able to drive through the island of Djurgården, where the Vasa Museum is located. One of the other attractions on the island is Skansen, an open-air museum containing more than 150 historic buildings relocated from areas throughout Sweden. We were able to see a few of those.

Skansen

Historic Buildings in Skansen

Before ending our tour, we drove through downtown Stockholm, admiring the historic buildings that now house pricy shops. I happened to spy Eton. Although spelled differently, it was fun to see my namesake store. Perhaps we should have stopped to buy a shirt for Tim.

Nordiska Kompaniet Department Store

Eton's

We had to be back on board for a 2:00 pm departure, so we didn’t have time to dally in town. We were looking forward to the sail away through the Stockholm archipelago on the Baltic Sea.

Friday, May 20, 2022

On Board the Viking Venus

A quick taxi ride delivered us to the Viking Venus for a very easy embarkation. The ship is beautiful, and I really appreciate the minimal Scandinavian décor.

We were soon able to access our stateroom, which I also admired. The size is perfect for us – it is even palatial when compared to the RV we lived in for five years! The bathroom has lots of storage space and one of our favorite features, a heated floor.

I was able to unpack, and I found a spot for everything we had brought with us. I hate clutter and am happy that there are plenty of drawers in which I can stash things.

I Am Very Happy with Our Stateroom

We met Joni, our Stateroom Steward, and Ida, his assistant. Their smiles were contagious, and they wanted to know all our preferences. The few things we asked for, like extra hangers, specific sodas, and a lighter weight comforter, appeared almost instantly. We are going to be well taken care of. 

Joni and Ida

Tim and I made our way to the World Café for lunch and then spent some time exploring the ship. We were both tired, and I had never recovered from jet lag, so we decided to take it easy the rest of the day.

Enjoying Lunch with a View

Based on first impressions alone, I have no doubt that we are going to love being on the ship. We are just about ready to set sail through Scandinavia and the British Isles and visit the ports on our itinerary.

Let's Go!

Thursday, May 19, 2022

Taking the Ferry to Djurgården and the Vasa Museum

One morning, we boarded a ferry at the southeast end of Gamla Stan for a visit to the island of Djurgården. On the way, we were treated to a postcard view of the Viking Venus, as well as the waterfront of Gamla Stan.

Viking Venus from the Ferry

Looking Back at Gamla Stan

Our main destination was the Vasa Museum, everyone’s favorite museum in Stockholm. The Vasa is a warship that sank within the first 40 minutes of her maiden voyage in 1628. The ship, which was rediscovered in 1956 and raised in 1961, is the best-preserved ship of its era in the world.

The detail on the ship is amazing, particularly the intricate sculptures, which were a tribute to the king, and the lion on the prow. What an impressive sight!

First View of Vasa as You Walk in the Main Entrance

Intricate Sculptures Were Originally Painted in Bright Colors

The Lion on the Prow

An Impressive Ship

After leaving the museum, we admired the beautiful tulips that were planted everywhere. We crossed the bridge to the main part of Stockholm and walked along the elegant Strandvägen before making our way back to Gamla Stan. On the way, we stopped at Svenskt Tenn for a fast and thorough tutorial in Swedish interior design. I love Swedish design, and it was fun to see some of my favorite pieces in person.

I Loved All the Tulips

The Waterfront along the Elegant Strandvägen 

Tim Trying to Capture His Best Shot

One last thing on our agenda was a COVID-19 test as required by Viking. Luckily, there was a test center in Gamla Stan, and booking and getting the test results couldn’t have been easier. Even better – our results were negative!

Before going to bed that night, we looked out our window for another view of the Viking Venus. We’ll be boarding the ship in the morning,

Viking Venus from Our Hotel Window