Day 42 – Mikkelsen Harbour, Antarctica

It was quite overcast with intermittent rain when Tim and I went to breakfast this morning. Viking Octantis was not scheduled to arrive in Mikkelsen Harbor until 1:00 pm, so I knew there was a good chance that the weather would change, hopefully for the better.

After attending the Daily Briefing, which took place this morning instead of yesterday afternoon, the weather did improve, and the sail-in to Mikkelsen Harbour was beautiful. Mikkelsen Harbour is a small bay on the south side of Trinity Island that is lined with stunning ice cliffs. Beginning in the nineteenth century, the bay was first used by sealing vessels and later by Norwegian whaling boats.

Dramatic Ice Cliffs Surround Mikkelsen Harbour

The destination for our zodiac landing was D’Hainaut Island, a small, rocky island inside the bay. The island contains a very large population of Gentoo penguins, and their rookeries were scattered throughout. Some were located on rocky hillsides, while others were near the shore or at the base of a weather station. We were told that a few had already laid eggs.

The paths established by the Expedition Team took us by many of the rookeries, and the penguins were much easier to see than the Chinstrap penguins yesterday. We also spotted a few seals.

Gentoo Penguins Typically Nest on Rocky Areas

Gentoo Penguins Were Everywhere on the Island

More Gentoo Penguins

Seals Also Frequented the Island

Tim and I were curious about the island's whaling artifacts, including a large accumulation of whale bones and the remains of an old whaling boat. These artifacts serve as a stark reminder of the area's past as a whaling station and are protected under Antarctic Treaty guidelines.

Whaling Artifacts

Also on the island is an uninhabited Argentinian shelter hut surrounded by a large penguin rookery.

Argentinian Hut and More Penguins

Sarah and Tim During Our Second Landing in Antarctica

All too soon, it was time to head back to the ship after a great visit. We did not set sail until 8:00 pm, and the icy cliffs were even more beautiful in the evening light.

Zodiac Ride Back to Viking Octantis

Scenery As We Left Mikkelsen Harbour

Day 41 – Half Moon Island, Antarctica

Today, Tim and I stepped foot on Antarctica. That accomplishment, in and of itself, is amazing to me since less than 0.002 percent of the world's population has visited this continent. A visit here is considered a rare achievement due to Antarctica’s remoteness, harsh conditions, and expense to get here.

For those who do travel here, Antarctica is often the seventh and final continent for many people to visit, and that is the case for Tim and me. What is most incredible, however, is that he and I have visited all seven continents in just this year alone! We never planned it that way, and it never occurred to us that this would be the result when we booked our World Cruise and this one for 2025. Amazing!

Charlie, One of Our Fellow World Cruise Passengers, Prepared This Certificate

This morning, we arrived at Half Moon Island on the Antarctic continent. Half Moon Island is a small, crescent-shaped island with a Chinstrap penguin colony, seals, and stunning views of the surrounding landscape. The island, which is located on the east side of Livingston Island in the South Shetland Islands, is rugged and rocky, with steep slopes and cobbled beaches.

It was foggy early this morning, and it began to snow and sleet when Tim and I were at breakfast. An hour later, conditions had not improved when guests began to arrive on Half Moon Island via a zodiac landing.

Half Moon Island In the Fog

Tim and I prepared for our own zodiac beach landing at 2:00 pm, just as the fog had mostly cleared. We climbed the hill on a path created by the Expedition Team and had our picture taken to document our arrival on the Antarctic continent. We had not thought about bringing a flag like some passengers did, but that’s ok. We know that we have achieved that milestone.

Plenty of Expedition Team Members to Assist Us During Our Beach Landing

The Expedition Team Made a Path to Enable Us to Climb the Hill

Tim and Sarah Celebrating Our Setting Foot on Our Seventh Continent

Half Moon Island is characterized by small hills and rock outcroppings, which we passed on the way to view the Chinstrap penguins who reside here. Although Gentoo penguins stole my heart on the Falkland Islands, I must admit that the Chinstraps are mighty cute!

Half Moon Island Has Lots of Rock Outcroppings and a Whaling Dory

Chinstrap Penguins - What a Descriptive Name! (lower right two photos courtesy of Expedition Team)

Just before Tim and I were about to head back to the ship, a bit of blue sky appeared, and what had been obscured by the fog was now crisp and clear. It was just a short window of perfect Antarctic weather – mostly clear skies, not too cold, and not windy – but we were the lucky ones to have experienced it.

We Could See the Beautiful View Across the Bay Once the Fog Lifted

We had even more beautiful views of the surrounding landscape on our zodiac ride back to the ship.

More Beautiful Scenery

The fog did return, however. We learned that this is typical Antarctic weather – changing every five minutes or so.

When I later put together a collage showing the various weather conditions, I joked that the line of guests on the island looked like a march of penguins. I identified these folks as Scarlet penguins, after their red Viking jackets.

The Changing Weather Over Half Moon Island - Can You Spot the Scarlet Penguins?

I wasn't sure what to expect on my first excursion in Antarctica. Would I be too cold? Would I be able to climb the snow-covered hills? I may not have been as graceful as I would have liked, and I even joked to the Expedition Team that I was the clumsy one, but I had a blast. The excursion far exceeded my expectations, and I wasn't ready to return to the ship when it was time. I can't wait for the next stop.

Expedition Leader Olivia warned us this afternoon that we might see a ghost early this evening. While we were at dinner, Polaris, our twin ship, appeared out of the fog and remained beside us for quite a while. Tim and I sailed on Polaris from Toronto to Fort Lauderdale last year, and it was very cool to see her again.

Our Sister Ship Polaris Emerged Out of the Fog

Cruise Mapper Showed the Twins Side by Side

Since penguins are a main attraction on our landings in Antarctica, Specialist Tim presented a lecture this evening entitled “Penguins – Living in Two Worlds.” Penguins are primarily residents of the southern hemisphere, including Antarctica, and have evolved to survive in both aquatic (to feed) and terrestrial (to nest) environments. So far, I have seen King, Gentoo, and Chinstrap penguins. I’m now hoping to see Adélie penguins.

Penguins - Living in Two Worlds

Day 40 – Sailing the South Atlantic Ocean

Viking Octantis had hoped to take us to Hope Bay today, but an unprecedented amount of sea ice in the area dashed those hopes. But enough about hopeful thinking and a bad play on words.

Sea Ice Still Surrounded Us This Morning - Although Beautiful, It Thwarted Our Plans for Today

The Expedition Team did a great job of scrambling to fill our unexpected sea day with lectures and other events. Little did they know that an unexpected occurrence awaited us later on.

In the afternoon, there were reports of whale sightings. I was able to see a few in the distance, and this was my first whale sighting of the cruise. I was excited to see them, but they were too far away for photos. While I was looking out the window, what mesmerized me was the sea and the beautiful patterns created by the ship and the wind.

The Patterns in the Glassy Blue Water Were Mesmerizing

I surprised myself by continuing to look out our window to try and spot more whales, and my unusual patience paid off. Suddenly, there were two whales directly under our window, where they remained for a while. I had never seen whales this close. The water was so glassy that I was able to see them clearly, even partially underwater. I was incredulous when one whale even spouted a rainbow! I found out later that the term for that is a “rainblow.” Wow!

All I Can Say Is WOW!

Our ship remained in position while the whales surrounded our ship for hours. Most of us were so excited that we were screaming when we spotted another whale. With our window open, not only could Tim and I see the whales, but we could even hear them.

No Other Whales Came Quite So Close, But It Was Still Amazing to Watch All the Others

After the whales departed, it was time for the Daily Briefing. The Captain attended to discuss the reasons for our missed destination today. He explained that more sea ice was encountered after midnight, forcing the ship to slow down. Other ships ahead of us reported even greater concentrations of sea ice, convincing the Captain that it would not be wise to proceed to Hope Bay, given that safety is his primary concern. He therefore made the decision to turn around and sail towards our next destination. Expedition Leader Olivia showed us a sonar image of the incredible amount of sea ice.

The Green Represents Areas of Sea Ice

Reversing Course

Both the Captain and Olivia couldn’t stop gushing about the whales and reported that they had never seen as many as we did today, especially in November, which is the beginning of the season. Olivia noted that the whales had come to us and surrounded us. Such density and concentration were very unusual.

Everyone on the ship was thrilled with this rare occurrence, including the Expedition Team and officers on the Bridge, who tried to keep track of the number of whales spotted. The Captain even joked that there were more whales than passengers.

Even the Officers on the Bridge Kept Count of the Whales

In the evening, I watched a very timely lecture by Specialist Chris entitled “An Introduction to Antarctica – the Origin, Highlights and Fascination of the Last Great Wilderness.” We learned that Antarctica is a frozen continent surrounded by sea and is the coldest, windiest, driest, and highest continent on Earth. Antarctica is truly one of the most perfectly preserved regions on the planet.

Introduction to Antarctica

I was very curious about all the sea ice we had seen in the last two days but was unsure about the difference between sea ice and icebergs. So, I watched two recorded lectures. I started with “Ice,” which was presented by General Naturalist Shane this afternoon, followed up by Specialist Chris’ lecture from a few days ago on “Ice, Ice, Baby Glaciers, Sea Ice and Icebergs.”

I learned, among other things, that sea ice is frozen ocean water that forms on the surface of the sea, while icebergs are large chunks of freshwater ice that have broken off from glaciers or ice shelves on land. The key differences are their origin (sea vs. land), composition (saltwater vs. freshwater), and size (flat sheets vs. massive irregular shapes). Now I know!

 Ice!

Ice, Ice, Baby Glaciers, Sea Ice and Icebergs

Today’s beautiful weather continued into the evening, and the views toward Antarctica were lovely.

I Can't Wait to Visit Antarctica Tomorrow

What a day! The beautiful sea ice, the gorgeous blue-sky day, and the whales more than made up for missing Hope Bay. This day may have been even better than the one originally planned.

Day 39 – Sailing the South Atlantic Ocean

Today was another day at sea with more surprises, the first of which I discovered when I opened our blinds and saw that Viking Octantis was surrounded by sea ice. It was an amazing sight, but I didn’t stop to take a photo since Tim and I were due at the Hangar.

The Expedition Team had arranged a Fun Photo Op in the Hangar for the continuing cruisers, and we were encouraged to don any of the gear, act silly, and have fun. This was my opportunity to "sail" a kayak, since I knew I would never be in one on the water! Sara was there to egg me on! Tim joined others in a zodiac, and who knows what silly things they did. We all had a very good time.

Expedition Fun Photo Op

Fun Photo Op of All Continuing Cruisers (photo courtesy of the Expedition Team)

In the middle of the afternoon, the ice returned, and this time I was able to capture the extent of it around our ship. The ice was beautiful, but not so good for sailing.

The Atlantic Was Covered with All Shapes and Sizes of Sea Ice

At the Daily Briefing, Expedition Leader Olivia gave us the back story about the ice and what had transpired today. When she arrived on the Bridge this morning, she noticed that we were heading north, not south towards Antarctica, and that the crazy course we had taken looked as though the ship had been steered by one of the passengers. She learned that around 2:00 am, the amount of sea ice required the Captain to change course to avoid as much of the ice as possible.

Our Crazy, Zigzag Deviation, and Our Course So Far from Ushuaia

Despite the 60 nautical mile deviation, the Captain was optimistic that we would reach Hope Bay tomorrow as planned. Hope Bay is located on the east side and near the tip of the Antarctic Peninsula, an area that Viking Octantis rarely visits. However, since we were coming from South Georgia, it would be a straight shot to this area, so that was the plan. Fingers crossed!

Our Completed and Planned Destinations Are Flagged on the Map

As we were eating dinner, Olivia announced that we would be sailing past Elephant Island, due to the early morning deviation. This ice-covered, mountainous island off the coast of Antarctica will always be linked to Ernest Shackleton, for it was this island which he and his crew finally reached after his ship, the Endurance, was trapped and crushed by ice in 1916. It was also from here where Shackleton and five men set sail for South Georgia in a damaged lifeboat to find help, leaving 22 men behind to survive for more than four months. All were eventually rescued.

Elephant Island

Specialist Loreen was so excited that we were in sight of Elephant Island as she presented her lecture, “Shackleton's Imperial Trans-Antarctic Expedition,” which told the entire story of this expedition, not just the one that is more commonly known. The more I learn about Shackleton and his remarkable story of survival in the harshest place on earth, the more interested I become in his exploits. The book Endurance is on my reading list for the upcoming winter, even if it does tells only a portion of the story.

Shackleton's Imperial Trans-Atlantic Expedition

Day 38 – Sailing the South Atlantic Ocean

After three amazing days in South Georgia, a destination that is frequently cancelled due to extreme weather, we will spend two days at sea as Viking Octantis sails toward Antarctica, most likely the highlight of our cruise.

Tim and I started our day at a private family-style breakfast. Fifty-five passengers are traveling on the Longitudinal World Cruise from Nuuk to Antarctica, while 31 guests are only traveling a portion of the itinerary. Those of us who embarked in either Fort Lauderdale or Valparaiso are known as consecutive cruisers, and the breakfast this morning was for us.

We were greeted at the door to Manfredi’s by several of the officers and offered a drink. Tables for eight were set with a lovely array of breakfast pastries, fruit, meats, and other items. That would have been plenty of food for me, but we were also served a hot meal with a made-to-order omelet. Entertainment Manager Arianna welcomed us and offered a toast for our continuing journey.

Our Private Family-Style Breakfast

Tim and Sarah and Our Fellow Continuing Cruisers

The food was delicious, and we met several couples who were new to us. The breakfast was a lovely gesture on the part of Viking, and one that I appreciated. I was disturbed to learn, however, that it resulted from complaints by several passengers who were upset with the special treatment given to the Longitudinal World Cruise guests. To me, that “special” treatment was a part of the World Cruise experience, and I never expected anything similar for us. Unfortunately, complaints, especially petty complaints, seem to be more common on this itinerary. It’s sad.

Tim and I next attended a mandatory IAATO briefing that explained all we needed to know to go ashore in Antarctica. The IAATO (International Association of Antarctica Tour Operators) is a member organization founded in 1991 to advocate and promote the practice of safe and environmentally responsible private-sector travel to the Antarctic. Since 1959, Antarctica has been governed internationally by the provisions of the Antarctic Treaty, which designated the entire continent as “a natural reserve, devoted to peace and science.” The treaty created an unprecedented global partnership that now includes nearly 50 countries.

IAATO Briefing and Its Educational and Regulatory Mission

Since we will be landing in Antarctica, we had one more mandatory Biosecurity inspection prior to our visit. Therefore, we brought all our outerwear to be checked by the Expedition Team.

Viking hosted another event this afternoon for the continuing cruisers, an exclusive cocktail reception in The Hide. The Captain, Hotel General Manager, and other officers were there and mingled with us. Tim and I were able to talk with other guests, with whom we compared notes. This was another lovely event.

Exclusive Cocktail Reception

At the Daily Briefing, Expedition Leader presented a “Day in the Life” of the Expedition Team. It was quite eye-opening to learn about everything that is involved in the job and all that goes into making every landing safe for both us and the wildlife on shore.

 We began to see a few icebergs this evening, including a large tabular one that was illuminated by the sun.  Beautiful!

A Massive Iceberg