Day 26 – Punta Arenas, Chile

Viking Octantis docked in Punta Arenas, Chile, early this morning. Founded as a penal colony in 1848, the city grew by virtue of its location on the Strait of Magellan. Punta Arenas is the southernmost large city in the world and is the gateway to some of Patagonia's most spectacular sights.

When I opened the blinds, I did not see the city, however. Instead, I was staring at the Seabourn Pursuit, the same ship that has been "in pursuit" of us for the last few days.

Viking Octantis on the Left and Seabourn Pursuit on the Right Rear

Although I was feeling better today, I had already decided to play it safe and cancel my excursion, “Strait of Magellan Park.” Tim went on the excursion, and this was the description:

Explore the majestic scenery of the Strait of Magellan and learn about the history of its early settlements. Stop at the Cerro de la Cruz observation deck for panoramic views of Punta Arenas and the nearby island of Tierra del Fuego. Take a scenic drive along the Strait of Magellan, admiring the spectacular scenery before arriving at Magellan Strait Park and Fort Bulnes, the first Chilean settlement in the area. Visit the fort and learn about the lives of these early adventurers during a guided tour to see the reconstructed wood palisades, the church and the chaplain’s quarters, along with the jail, powder magazine, post office and stables. Enjoy the striking views from Punta Santa Ana, and imagine how explorers from yesteryear felt when they arrived at this beautiful yet harsh location. At the park’s visitors center, enjoy free time and refreshments before returning to your ship.

I did leave my room today and went to breakfast and lunch in the World Café, where I thanked Nagesh and Thompson for their kindness last night. It turns out that port days are good days for doing laundry, and I managed to do two loads with no one else around. I do hate to be around people when I’m coughing.

Tim returned from his excursion in the afternoon and shared these photos with me.

Beautiful View of the Strait of Magellan and Tierra del Fuego

Fort Bulnes

Model of Ferdinand Magellan's Ship the Trinidad

Tonight, I watched another interesting lecture by Specialist Loreen entitled “Patagonia’s Indigenous People.” The area where we are sailing was settled by primitive hunter-gatherers thousands of years ago, and she focused on three of these indigenous groups, the Mapuche, the Tehuelche, and the Yamana.

Indigenous Peoples of Patagonia

Day 25 – Sailing the Strait of Magellan, Chile

We are still sailing the Chilean Fjords today, and our luck with the weather is holding. The skies are overcast, although the sun peeked out this afternoon, and the seas are calm. For most of the day, we sailed the Magellan Strait, a passage in southern Chile linking the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. The strait is located between the mainland tip of South America and Tierra del Fuego.

Sailing the Magellan Strait

The strait is named after Ferdinand Magellan, the first European to navigate this passage. Magellan was a Portuguese explorer best known for leading the first expedition to successfully circumnavigate the globe. The Magellan Strait was an important sea route before the building of the Panama Canal.

I’m glad today was a sailing day since I woke up with a nasty cold. I have no idea how I got it, but I seem to be susceptible to upper respiratory infections while I’m traveling. It was a good day to stay in the cabin, sleep, enjoy the scenery, and order room service. We’ll be docking in Punta Arenas tomorrow, and I hope to feel good enough to take my excursion.

The Many Moods of the Magellan Strait

The sweetest thing happened this evening. Head waiter Nagesh and waiter Thompson, two of my favorite people, cornered Tim at the restaurant when he arrived for dinner to ask where I was. When he replied that I wasn’t feeling well, they asked what they could send to my cabin to help make me feel better.

Since I didn’t know the back story at the time, I was astonished when Thompson knocked at my door bearing a tray of soup and rolls. I had just ordered room service, but Thompson said he didn’t want me to be hungry while waiting for my dinner to be delivered. How sweet was that! This is just another instance that shows how Viking goes the extra step to take care of its guests.

Day 24 – Glacier El Brujo, Chile

Another day, another glacier! I could get used to this! Viking Octantis had anchored in front of El Brujo Glacier by the time Tim and I got up. I later learned that we did not actually anchor. Instead, we used dynamic positioning, a computer-controlled system that uses the ship's thrusters and propellers to automatically maintain a precise location and heading without using anchors.

The mile-wide El Burjo Glacier is located at the end of the Asia Fjord and is more than 220 feet in height. Although not nearly as large as Pio XI Glacier, it is just as beautiful, and its blue color seems to be even more intense. Like Pio XI, El Brujo is located in Bernardo O'Higgins National Park, the largest protected area in Chile.

El Brujo Glacier

I was scheduled to take both zodiac and Special Operations Boat (SOB) excursions, but I was not feeling 100 percent today, so I gave up my seats to some lucky souls on the waitlist.

Even if I didn’t get out on the water, I was perfectly content to watch the scenery from the Bow and from our cabin window. The water was filled with ice and small icebergs, and the setting was magical.

The Water Was Filled with Ice

After Tim returned from his zodiac ride, which got him even closer to the face of the glacier, we went to the World Café for lunch, where we both indulged in the Cherry Jubilee Station for dessert.

Tim on His Zodiac Excursion - Look How Close They Got to the Glacier

Cherry Jubilee Station Courtesy of Chef de Cuisine Albert and Public Safety Officer Atha

In the afternoon as I was looking out our window, I spotted a seal sea lion and watched it for a bit. That was the first real wildlife I’ve spotted on this cruise, other than a few birds, since I usually don’t have the patience to wait around for sightings. (I found out a few days later from Naturalist Sara that the animal I saw was not a seal, but a sea lion, who was most likely pregnant since she was so chubby!)

My Seal Sea Lion Sighting

For anyone who is curious, Expedition ships do not have regular balconies. All cabins, however, have what are called Nordic balconies. The windows, which span the width of our cabin, are floor-to-ceiling in height, and the upper portion can be lowered halfway. A ledge makes it easy to lean out and watch the action, and I’ve made good use of this feature.

Nordic Balcony - Closed (left) and Open (right) - It's Impossible to Keep Windows Clean

The sun came out for a while when Tim went for his SOB excursion, and the glacier was even more beautiful, with wonderful reflections in the water. We have been so fortunate with the weather on this cruise.

Tim's SOB Excursion - See How Tiny Viking Octantis Looks Next to the Glacier

El Brujo Glacier Is Even More Stunning When the Sun Shines

As we prepared to depart, the Captain promised to sail even closer to the glacier, and he delivered. Naturally, I had to take even more photos of this awesome sight from the Bow.

A Final Shot of El Brujo Glacier

Details of El Brujo Glacier

We were also rewarded with more beautiful scenery during the sail away through the Asia Fjord. Although it’s always amazing to see glaciers, I am also enjoying the entire landscape, including snowcapped mountains and green hills, plus the calm waters.

Scenery Along Asia Fjord

Tonight, I attended another lecture by Specialist Chris on “Fjords Around the World.” What excellent timing! We learned that Chilean fjords are long, narrow inlets with steep sides or cliffs and were created by glacial activity. These fjords stand out due to their vast scale. 

Chris also compared the Chilean fjords to the other three areas with fjords – Norway, Alaska, and New Zealand. I’ve visited a few of the fjords in Norway, more in Alaska, and none in New Zealand. Milford Sound in New Zealand is on my bucket list.

Fjords: Geological Marvels and Ecological Havens

Day 23 – Scenic Cruising and Glacier Pio XI

Tim and I were up bright and early for our first zodiac cruise, but before that, we headed to the Bow for the Morning Crepes Station, served by Viking Octantis Hotel Officers. I went for a sweet crepe, while Tim opted for a savory one.

Executive Housekeeper Goran, Restaurant Manager Alfredo, and Guest Services Manager Selene
Manning the Morning Crepes Station

We are anchored today in Arancibia, Chile, just a short distance from the Pio XI Glacier. Located in Bernardo O’Higgins National Park, Pio XI Glacier is the largest glacier in South America. In fact, it is as large as the city of Santiago, and it’s growing every day, unlike most glaciers, which are retreating.

A Beautiful View this Morning

We were informed that we wouldn’t be able to see the glacier until early this evening, however, when Viking Octantis will set sail for Pio XI. 

The Expedition Team Deploys Zodiacs to Assess Conditions Before Giving the Final OK - 
Conditions Were Excellent, and the Kayaks Were Being Towed to the Staging Area

It took a bit of time for Tim and me to get into our cold weather gear and figure out how to wear the life jackets, but we finally got the hang of things and made our way to the landing area where we boarded our zodiac. Our cruise was 45 minutes long, and we motored around, looking for dolphins and other wildlife. It was too dangerous for zodiacs to get anywhere near the glacier, so we stayed closer to the ship.

Tim and Sarah, All Suited Up for the Cold

One of the highlights was a waterfall that our guide took us to, and he nosed the zodiac right up to it. We also sailed around our first iceberg, which was probably just a bergy bit since it was fairly small, but it was still very cool to see it up close.

Zipping Around in our Zodiac and Seeing a Waterfall and Iceberg Up Close

A Great View of Viking Octantis from the Zodiac

Tim had an exciting afternoon when he took a ride on the submarine. A zodiac took him to the submarine, where he boarded and descended into the depths. He saw lots of tube sponges, as well as crabs and rays, and really enjoyed the ride. He shared these photos with me.

Tim's Submarine Excursion

During dinner, Captain Joergen sailed Viking Octantis toward Pio XI Glacier, and we anchored less than 1,500 feet away from its face. I didn’t get a photo as we were sailing in to capture the enormity of the glacier in one shot, but believe me, the size was amazing. What a spectacular sight with shapes and colors that were exquisite.

The Magnificent Pio XI Glacier

Closer Details of the Pio XI Glacier

We were told not to expect much calving, which is the breaking of ice chunks from the edge of a glacier, because it’s so early in the season and the ice is still very hard. Some passengers, however, were very lucky to see this phenomenon, and I was able to watch a few of their videos.

Several of Us Experimented with Taking Photos of the Glacier's Reflection in the Explorers' Lounge Windows

We remained at the glacier until the sun set, which was not until 9:05 pm. What a wonderful end to a wonderful day!

Shortly after I wrote the preceding paragraph, I happened to look out my window as we were sailing away and happened to see another incredible sight. What appeared to be a huge full moon had risen over the glacier. Wow!

Full Moon Over Pio XI Glacier

After googling November’s full moon date, I learned that the peak illumination in Chile will not happen until 10:19 am tomorrow. This will also be the largest supermoon of the year, and what I saw tonight did seem larger and brighter than an average full moon.

Day 22 – Scenic Cruising of the Chilean Fjords

Conditions were a bit rough last night and this morning as we returned to the Pacific Ocean. Shortly after lunchtime, however, we turned into the Fallos Channel, one of the secondary Patagonian channels in the Chilean Fjords of Patagonia. The channel separates Isla Campana from Isla Prat, and the views of both islands were lovely. Technically, we were in a channel, not a fjord, since a fjord has only one way in and out. Whatever it’s called, the sailing was scenic all afternoon.

Sailing through the Patagonian Channels of the Chilean Fjords

In the morning, Tim and I attended a lecture by Specialist Chris, who spoke about “Majestic Glaciers – How Are These Formed and Are They Disappearing.” Viewing the Chilean glaciers is one of the things I’m most looking forward to on this cruise, and I was surprised to learn that Chile is home to some of the largest and most active glaciers in the world.

Glaciers: Nature's Frozen Giants

Chris asked us to think of glaciers as frozen rivers, a concept that made a lot of sense to me. He further explained that glaciers are massive, persistent bodies of dense ice that constantly move under their own weight. They are also majestic things, particularly tidewater glaciers.

The Two Glaciers We'll Be Visiting in the Next Few Days

The Expedition Team has been keeping us informed about where we are going, what we are seeing, and what to expect. I enjoyed looking at the maps of the Chilean fjords showing the glaciers and national parks we will be seeing.

Maps Showing Glaciers and National Parks We'll Be Seeing

Viking has been gifting us with traditional items from the countries we’ve visited. I previously mentioned the Mayan Vanilla and the Day of the Dead Amaranth Sparkles Skull candy from Mexico. We also received a bag of gourmet coffee beans from Panama, and a bottle of Sabor Andino Sour, a ready-to-serve version of a pisco sour, a cocktail that is traditional to both Peruvian and Chilean cuisine. Thank you, Viking.

Gifts from the Viking Octantis Family

This afternoon, I made a visit to the Explorers’ Lounge, where Dom prepared a special drink for me, his Montenegro Classico. Watching his hand trick as he poured from the can was worth the price of admission. The drink was also quite good.

Dom Mixing My Special Drink - How Does He Do That?

Being in the Explorers’ Lounge reminded me that the best views are often from the bow of the ship. The scenery continued to be wonderful throughout the day and early evening.

More Beautiful Scenery from the Bow

This evening, I attended another excellent lecture by Specialist Loreen, entitled “The Voyage of the HMS Beagle.” We learned that during the Beagle’s circumnavigation of the world, much of the time was spent along the edge of Patagonia, where we are sailing. Charles Darwin was a naturalist on this epic voyage, and his observations of the natural world allowed him to form the foundational theory for understanding how life changes and adapts over time.

The Voyage of the Beagle - The Red Line on the Map Parallels Our Route in Patagonia

Day 21 – Puerto Chacabuco, Chile

Viking Octantis had already anchored at Puerto Chacabuco, Chile, by the time Tim and I woke up this morning.  Located at the tip of the Aysén Fjord at the foot of Andes mountains, this area is gorgeous, and I think my mouth dropped when I opened the blinds and saw the beautiful scenery in front of me!  Mountains with snow-covered peaks greeted us for the first time on this cruise.

Welcome to Puerto Chacabuco

This Is the Scenery that I Woke Up To

Viking Octantis deployed all the “toys” today, and we watched from our window as the zodiacs and Special Operations Boats departed. It seems we selected the perfect cabin location.

All the "Toys" Were Out Today, But I Only Managed Photos of the Zodiacs and Special Operation Boats

Tim and I, however, had decided to take today’s included excursion, “Puerto Chacabuco and Surroundings,” to delve deeper into the natural beauty of northern Patagonia on land. This was the description:

Marvel at the magnificent “Wild West” fjordland coastline of Chile, where the Andes Mountains plunge to the ocean. Situated 250 miles south of Puerto Montt, it is here that the northern Patagonian ice sheets fall into the sea in intense blue splendor. The journey through what is known as the Chilean Patagonia is a truly magnificent experience. The construction of the Carretera Austral roadway now makes the area more accessible for travelers. Your excursion begins with a one-hour journey through beautiful scenery, as you follow the river along the base of a deep, rocky gorge. Your destination is the Rio Simpson National Reserve, where you will take a brief walk down to the river to photograph this rugged landscape. Visit the information center and small museum before heading back to port and your awaiting ship.

We tendered ashore to the tiny enclave of Puerto Chacabuco, which serves as the gateway to the rugged wilderness, and boarded our motorcoach for the drive to Rio Simpson National Reserve. 

A View of Viking Octantis as We Tendered Ashore

The weather today was spectacular, sunny and not too cold, and our guide informed us how lucky we were, since this area gets over 300 days of rain per year.

Our route took us on Chile's Carretera Austral, one of the world's most remote and spectacular highways. Built by the Chilean Army in the 1970s, this partially paved road is 771 miles in length, connecting once-isolated Patagonian communities through some of the most unforgiving terrain on Earth.

Of course, we only traveled a small section of the road, but the scenery that we saw was beautiful. Cattle raising is a primary activity in this area, and we saw lots of cows, as well as sheep.

Scenery Along the Highway

Our destination was Rio Simpson National Reserve, a protected wild area administered by the National Forestry Corporation. As we walked along the Simpson River, our guide suggested that we be on the lookout for a puma. Unfortunately, we never saw this elusive cat, but we did spot the wooden carving of one. The sculpture was designed to highlight the importance of the largest feline in Chile and a crucial apex predator in the Patagonian ecosystem.

Scenery Along the Simpson River

A Wooden Puma and Mushrooms

We also learned about some of the local flora. I was especially fascinated by the nalca, an unusual plant that is native to southern Chile and has long prickly stems and huge green leaves. Our guide encouraged us to touch the leaves, which were also surprisingly prickly. She also pointed out unusual mushrooms growing in a knot on one of the trees.

The Prickly Nalca

Tim and Sarah at Rio Simpson National Reserve

On the way back to the ship, we were able to see the scenery on the other side of the highway that we had missed earlier. We briefly stopped to view Cascada La Virgen, or the Virgin Waterfall, and the suspension bridge in Puerto Aysén, the longest in Chile. Before long, we were back in Puerto Chacabuco, where we tendered back to Viking Octantis.

More Scenery Along the Highway

Since I had been asleep as we sailed the Aysén Fjord this morning, I made a point of admiring the spectacular scenery as we left Port Chacabuco this afternoon. I love being surrounded by mountains again.

Scenery Along the Aysén Fjord

A Beautiful Ending to a Great Day

Day 20 – Scenic Cruising of the Chilean Fjords

Today is another sea day, but we left the Pacific Ocean behind and entered the Chilean Fjords. We were in sight of land all day, although the land was in the distance. The sea is much calmer here, with minimal rocking and rolling.

A specialty Pasta Station was featured at lunch today, and it was very popular. I think the wait was worth it, however.

Pasta Station

Our new Specialist Historian Loreen presented a fascinating lecture on the “National Parks of Patagonia.” The story of how two visionary individuals bought up land in Chile for conservation purposes and then donated the land to the Chilean government for the creation of national parks was inspiring.

Chilean National Parks - A Legacy for the Ages

Loreen then told us about the Route of Parks that is a result of their efforts. This scenic route of approximately 1,700 miles takes travelers to the ends of earth by connecting 17 national parks in southern Chile. I’m so glad that we will be visiting several of these beautiful and varied landscapes on this journey.

Chilean National Parks and the Route of Parks