Home Again After a Great Week in South Florida

My week with Herbert went by in a flash. I always love spending time with Herbert, who is my second-oldest friend, and I seem to feed off his energy and love for the “good things” in life.

Tim returned to Colorado after two days, but we still had time to try out new restaurants and meet up with friends. The pace seemed to quicken after Tim’s departure, with lots of shopping, dining out, and get-togethers with more friends, old and new.

Fun Times with Herbert and Margaret, and Rolando and John

A Fabulous Dinner of Stone Crabs at Sharon and Stephen's

I still had time to complete the job I had volunteered for – organizing Herbert’s amazing new kitchen. I eventually found an appropriate place for all his many beautiful things. I’m not sure where everything will fit, however, when he adds more items to his collection.

Herbert's Kitchen at Villa Moderne

I was so grateful that Herbert graciously agreed with my request to return my rental car last night. It was difficult to find where to go, and I’m so glad that I didn’t have to deal with that chore this morning. Herbert was once again so kind to drive me to the airport before the crack of dawn today. Thank you, Herbert, and I can’t wait to see you again in December when Tim and I will stay with you before we embark on our Viking World Voyage.

Disembarking Viking Polaris in Fort Lauderdale

Tim and I were up early this morning in preparation for our disembarkation. After a final breakfast in the World Café, we gathered our things and left the ship. Since we had already cleared customs during our stop in New York City, we simply walked through the Port Everglades terminal, collected our luggage, and made our way to the shuttle for Budget Rent-a-Car.

A Rainbow Greeted Us As We Arrived in Fort Lauderdale

I had decided to rent a car since I will be remaining in South Florida for another week. Braving the South Florida traffic, we made it to Coral Gables, where we will be staying with my friend Herbert. Since our previous visit with Herbert last December, he had moved to a new house, and he has almost completed an amazing renovation. I immediately fell in love with his new home, Villa Moderne.

Herbert and Sarah at Villa Moderne

Final Day at Sea

The final, full day on every cruise is always sad for me, knowing that the end of a great adventure is in sight. Leaving the friends we have made and the wonderful crew members that we have come to know is never easy. Repacking suitcases, one of my least favorite chores, doesn’t help.

Although Tim and I got to know even more of the crew on Viking Polaris, since the ship is so much smaller, there were a few that really stood out to us.

Wayne and Vi were two of the best stateroom stewards we’ve had, and they took such good care of us. Wayne was the quiet one, while Vi expressed her bubbly personality every time we saw her. She was always smiling and asking what she could do for us. Tim developed a special fondness for Wayne and Vi and brought them cookies every evening after dinner. They called him “Cookie Man.”

Sarah and Tim with Wayne and Vi

Members of the Expedition Team were a major factor in making this cruise so special. Marc, the Expedition Leader, had the perfect personality for this role. He was always happy and smiling and endeavored to make sure everyone was having a great time. He gave me a hug almost every time I saw him, perhaps remembering the goodies that I brought back to him and his team from tea at the Chateau Frontenac. I also got to know Zach, Todd, and Paul and enjoyed our many conversations. All the members were very approachable and eager to share their experiences and knowledge.

Zach and Marc; Alex and Todd; Paul, Sarah, and Mark; and Zach

The servers in the World Café always fixed café lattes for us in the morning and fetched anything else we asked for, often before we knew we wanted it! Gisella, the Assistant Restaurant Manager in the World Café, greeted us by name every day and kept the place running so smoothly. Hers was another smile that I loved to see.

Gisella

I can’t forget to mention the bartenders in the Explorers’ Lounge. Krisna, Cui, and Kenn introduced me to several new drinks and created interesting mocktails for Tim. I had never spent time in the Explorers’ Lounge on previous cruises, but I found it to be the perfect place to meet people and enjoy the company of new friends. The back-and-forth banter with the bartenders added to the fun.

Cui, Kenn, and Krisna

Tomorrow, we will disembark in Fort Lauderdale, and I’ll spend a week with friends in the Miami area.

Charleston, South Carolina

Charleston was founded in 1670 and is known for its history, its architecture, its beauty, and its cuisine. It’s a city that I know rather well, since I visited there many times while living in Savannah, Georgia. I love Charleston and was happy that we would spend the day there. Since Tim was less familiar with the city than I, we decided to take the included tour, Panoramic Charleston, in the morning.

A motorcoach is not the best way to see Charleston, but most of the tour, thank goodness, was on foot. We passed many of the city’s historic sites, including the “Four Corners of Law” at the intersection of Meeting and Broad Streets. The four buildings here represent federal law (Federal Courthouse), state law (Charleston County Courthouse), city law (Charleston City Hall), and God’s law (St. Michael’s Episcopal Church).

The Four Corners of Law

We also walked by many Charleston single houses, an iconic architectural style that originated here during the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries. Known for its distinctive narrow profile, this house type is typically only one room wide, with the long side of the house perpendicular to the street. The side door that one sees from the street opens onto a large porch or piazza that stretches the length of the house. The real front door leads from this piazza into the central hall.

Examples of Charleston Single Houses

The highlight of the tour was a visit to the Nathanial Russell House, a house museum operated by Historic Charleston Foundation. This grand townhouse was built in 1808 and is recognized as one of America’s most important neoclassical dwellings. It is known for its amazing, three-story, free-flying staircase, as well as its elegant interiors with elaborate plasterwork.

Nathanial Russell House 

I was encouraged to see that the interpretation of houses like this one has evolved considerably since I lived in the South in the 1980s. Today, our guides included stories not only about Nathanial Russell and his family, but also about the 18 enslaved Africans that lived on and maintained this property and were and integral part of its history. 

After touring the spectacular interior spaces of the main house, we were able to walk into the former kitchen where an ongoing archeological investigation will enable the staff to fully understand, preserve, and accurately interpret the enslaved quarters. The results of this work will enable Historic Charleston Foundation to finally tell the complete history of this important site.

Ongoing Archeological Investigations in the Kitchen

The Gardens at the Nathaniel Russell House

After returning to the ship and grabbing a bite to eat, I set out on foot to visit two other sites in Charleston. Tim decided he’d had enough touring for the day and stayed behind.

Although I had previously visited Fort Sumter and Fort Moultrie National Historical Park, I decided to stop at the Visitor Center in Liberty Square since it was not far from the ship. Although I didn’t take the boat to Fort Sumter, a federal stronghold where the first shots of the Civil War rang out on April 12, 1861, I checked out the exhibits. The back deck provided a great view of Charleston Harbor and the beautiful Ravenel Bridge, the longest cable-stayed bridge of its time in North America when it opened in 2005.

Fort Sumter Visitor Center

From Liberty Square, I walked along the harbor to the new International African American Museum, located on Gadsden’s Wharf, the point of disembarkation for nearly half the Africans enslaved and shipped to the United States during the trans-Atlantic slave trade. This floating, single-story museum is raised 13 feet above the ground on a double row of concrete columns, thereby providing space for a plaza of remembrance, with a reflecting pool representing the souls lost in the passage over the Atlantic Ocean.

Exterior Features of the International African American Museum

The museum exhibits tell the story of how Africans and African Americans, through their labor, resistance, and ingenuity, have shaped every aspect of our world. Although I only had time for a brief visit, I was able to focus on the exhibit and coming-of-age film about the history and contemporary issues facing the Gullah Geechee, a people living in Coastal Georgia whose culture is a blend of African traditions and other influences.

All the exhibits that I raced through were extremely well done, and I would love to return and spend more time viewing them.

Museum Exhibits at the International African American Museum

The walk back to the ship seemed longer than before, but I made it in time to attend the Viking Farewell Reception. I have enjoyed these farewell receptions since they give us a chance to thank the officers and crew for a memorable cruise. This one had more drama, however, than the ones on the Viking Ocean ships. Here, after the captain’s introduction, the screen in the Aula, the ship’s panoramic auditorium, was retracted to reveal the crew standing on the terrace behind the floor-to-ceiling windows. The crew then began to file onto the stage, where they received a well-deserved standing ovation.

Viking Farewell Reception

As we sailed from Charleston Harbor, we passed by Fort Sumter, just as the sun was beginning to set. It was a great day.

Sailing Past Fort Sumter in the Setting Sun

Sailing the Atlantic Ocean, Still

Because we are on a repositioning cruise, where the Viking Polaris moves from the Great Lakes to South America and Antarctica, there are many sea days. Although many people dislike sea days, I’m not one of them. There always seems to be something to do, whether it be lectures, chores, reading, or simply relaxing. Today, I seemed to do a little of everything.

When Tim and I went to the World Café for lunch, we were surprised to find an elaborate dessert buffet. This was a first, and the goodies were beautifully presented. Of course, we had to sample several of the offerings.

Desserts Can Be Works of Art

In the afternoon, I had signed up for a premium wine tasting. This was much more pleasing to my tastebuds than the cognac tasting that I attended earlier in the voyage. I enjoyed sampling and learning about some of the more expensive wines on the ship.

Premium Wine Tasting

Although the evening entertainment on the ship has been rather low key, which suits me perfectly, tonight’s was a bit different. I had no intention of participating in the “Rock the Boat Party,” but I happened to stumble across it as I was making my way to the Explorers’ Lounge. I was curious and stopped to watch as the dancing started. I quickly left, however, before someone tried to drag me out onto the dance floor. I think everyone had fun, and I was happy to see that many crew members were also able to participate. For me, however, the bar was a much safer place to be!

The Start of the Viking Dance Party

Sailing the Atlantic Ocean, Again

After a full day yesterday in New York, I was happy to have a sea day today. The Atlantic Ocean was relatively calm, thank goodness.

Today was a day for chores, including laundry. I love that Viking ships have launderettes on board and even provide detergent. It certainly simplifies the amount of clothes one must pack.

Tim and I attended a future cruise presentation on Egypt and Mekong River cruises. The itineraries were very interesting, but we haven’t booked anything yet.

I don’t remember how we spent the rest of the day, but my evening was busy. Todd presented a mini lecture on “The Halifax Explosion: The Day the Clocks Stopped in Nova Scotia.” I had never heard of this event when two ships collided in 1917 in the Halifax harbor and created the largest manmade explosion in history. Wow!

The Halifax Explosion

After a rather sobering talk, it was time for something light. I rarely attend the shows or other entertainment in the evenings, but tonight I made an exception, and I’m glad I did. The Viking Polaris entertainment team presented a “Movie Musical and Broadway Performance,” and they sang or played so many of my favorite songs, many of which I had not heard in years.

Movie Musical and Broadway Performance

New York City, New York

It seemed like most of the passengers were on deck or in one of the lounges as we sailed into New York City early this morning. We passed under the Verrazzano-Narrows Bridge and then sailed rather close to the Statue of Liberty and Ellis Island. We all braved the wind to try and get the perfect photo.

Sailing by the Verrazzano-Narrows Bridge, Statue of Liberty, and Ellis Island

The New York Skyline

Viking Polaris docked at Pier 88, located adjacent to the legendary aircraft carrier, Intrepid. We could see the nuclear weapons-carrying submarine, several military aircraft, a supersonic spy plane, and the Concorde, the world’s fastest commercial airliner, all of which were displayed on and around the Intrepid. Tim and I didn’t visit the museum, but we had a great view from our ship.

Several Tugboats Aided Us in Docking at Pier 88, Adjacent to the Intrepid Museum

Tim and I had debated what to do on our unexpected day in New York and decided to take the included tour to the 9/11Memorial and Museum in the afternoon. In the morning, we boarded a Hop-On Hop-Off Bus to see a bit of the city. Since I am still trying to visit as many National Park Units as possible, we were able to get on and off the bus and visit two units that were near the route.

The Theodore Roosevelt Birthplace National Historic Site is a typical New York brownstone. Located on what was once a quiet, tree-lined street in New York’s most fashionable residential district, the house was Roosevelt’s home from the time of his birth in 1858 until age 14. The house was demolished in 1916 but was reconstructed after his death as a memorial.

We arrived just in time for a tour of the rooms that have been restored to reflect their appearance between 1865 and 1872. Our volunteer guide was a fount of knowledge about TR and his life, but the 30-minute tour dragged on for almost one hour. Even I, a huge fan of TR, had heard enough for one visit.

Theodore Roosevelt Birthplace National Historic Site

After reboarding another bus, we made our way to Wall Street, where we got off to visit Federal Hall National Memorial. We were hungry by that time, but didn’t pass any places to eat. So, we settled for a hot dog from one of New York’s ubiquitous carts. It hit the spot.

The original building that stood on the site where Federal Hall is located is where George Washington was sworn in as first President of the United States on April 30, 1789. This site was also home to the first Congress, Supreme Court, and Executive Branch offices. The current structure, a Greek Revival style Customs House, was constructed in 1842, and it later served as one of six Federal Sub-Treasuries.

This National Park Unit serves as a memorial to our first President and the beginnings of the United States of America. Tim and I watched an introductory video and toured the exhibits that included a section of the railing and a stone from the balcony where the oath of office was taken. The bible on which Washington placed his hand was not on display at this time.

Unfortunately, Federal Hall is now surrounded by sidewalk scaffolding while the National Park Service conducts an in-depth condition assessment of the building façade. The statue of George Washington is still visible.

Federal Hall National Memorial

From Federal Hall, it was a short walk to the 9/11 Memorial and Museum. On the way, we passed the Memorial Wall, located on the side of FDNY Engine 10 Ladder 10, directly across from the World Trade Center site. The bas-relief sculpture is dedicated to the 343 members of the New York Fire Department who died on 9/11. A large inscription, spanning the length of the sculpture reads, “Dedicated to those who fell and those who carry on. May we never forget.”

The Memorial Wall

The 9/11 Memorial is located at the site of the former World Trade Center complex and features twin reflecting pools with the largest man-made waterfalls in North America. Despite the number of people at the Memorial, I found it to be a peaceful and calming place that enabled me to reflect on that horrible day.

The inscriptions in the bronze parapets surrounding the reflecting pools include the names of all victims who died as a direct result of injuries sustained in the attacks. I was struck by the flowers inserted next to many of the names, as well as the extreme care taken by those who maintain this site.

The 9/11 Memorial

Tim and I met our Viking group at the entrance to the 9/11 Museum, which we then toured on our own. The Museum is sited at bedrock, where the foundation of the Twin Towers once stood, seven stories below the Memorial. The exhibitions took us through that day, starting with the story of the attacks, their aftermath, and the people who experienced these events.

Viewing the exhibits was a very emotional experience, and I soon found that I could handle no more images. For me, it would take multiple visits to do justice to the exhibits. I would also consider booking a private tour that would explain the meaning and significance of many of the elements presented there.

The 9/11 Museum

We returned to Viking Polaris after dark and soon thereafter, sailed back out to sea. We passed the skyline of Manhattan with its many illuminated buildings, and then the Statue of Liberty.

Sailing Away from New York City

It was a full day in the city, and I’m glad Tim and I will be staying there for five days when we disembark in New York after our Viking World Voyage.

Sailing the Atlantic Ocean

Tim and I awoke this morning to the most rocking and rolling of the ship to date. Waves were crashing around us, and the spray often obscured the view from our window. We were in no hurry to get up.

Views from Our Window

I even missed Todd’s morning lecture on “Fun with Flags: A Vexillophile’s Look at the Amazing World of Vexillology.” Luckily, Viking provides live streaming of all talks, as well as recorded versions on our stateroom TVs, so I plan to watch it later.

I did treat myself this afternoon to a Nordic Facial at The Spa and enjoyed all 50 minutes of it. 

Almost everyone on the ship is excited about the news we received yesterday. We had been scheduled to visit Norfolk, Virginia, on October 18, but the port could not process our ship. Instead, we will be sailing into New York City tomorrow and spending the day and evening there. Tim and I spent some time today planning how we will spend our time in the city.

The food on the ship has been excellent, and Tim and I usually eat in the World Café, the casual buffet. Included in the World Café is a grill, and I’ve enjoyed a few of their steaks. Tonight, I tried a tomahawk steak, a bone-in ribeye that has been trimmed to resemble the shape of a tomahawk. It could have been a weapon in the hands of the chef.

A Tomahawk Steak, Or a Weapon?

When Tim and I were on our tour of Niagara Falls, we stopped in Niagara-on-the-Lake, and I purchased a bottle of Icewine. Krisna, one of our favorite bartenders, had kept it behind the bar for me, and tonight, I was finally able to share it with Jerry and Steven, with whom I have spent many evenings in the Explorers’ Lounge. I think we all enjoyed the wine, especially since it wasn’t too sweet.

A Glass of Icewine with Jerry and Steven

Lunenburg, Nova Scotia

Because we were not scheduled to arrive in Lunenburg until noon, Tim and I had a relaxing morning on board. As we passed by Expedition Central, Marc, our Expedition Leader, grabbed us and asked for a photograph of us with him and Paul, one of the Expedition Team members. Although I like all the team members, I’ve connected more with Marc, Paul, Zach, and Todd. They are so friendly and outgoing, and I always enjoy spending time with them.

Paul and Marc, with a Group Selfie with Marc

Today we tendered ashore on a beautiful day for our included tour, “Lure of Lunenburg by Foot.” The city of Lunenburg was once one of the busiest shipbuilding cities in the world, and Lunenburg today remains a bustling, yet beautiful, fishing port.

Lunenburg’s historic Old Town is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and the city is considered the best surviving example of a planned British colonial settlement in North America. The city is often called the “Prettiest Town in Canada.”

We set out with our guide and walked along the working waterfront, hearing about its history and seafaring heritage. We stopped at the Fishermen’s Memorial, which forms a compass and lists names of sailors and ships that have been lost at sea.

Fishermen's Memorial

Our tour took us through the commercial part of the city with its colorful buildings, and then to the lovely residential section. As we climbed the hill, we were treated to excellent examples of various architectural styles, including houses with a central dormer that extends down and out, known locally as a “Lunenburg bump.”

Colorful Commercial Buildings

Beautiful Residential Architecture

The Lunenburg "Bump"

Historic Churches

Once we reached the highest point in Lunenburg, we stopped at the Lunenburg Academy, a rare survivor from Nova Scotia’s nineteenth century academy system of education. Our guide had been a student there before the school closed in 2012.

Lunenburg Academy

We ended our tour at the harborside Fisheries Museum of the Atlantic, which we toured on our own. The museum has extensive galleries that provide insight into Lunenburg’s longstanding ties to the sea.

Fisheries Museum of the Atlantic

As we tendered back to our ship, we had postcard views of Lunenburg’s distinctive and colorful waterfront. Those views were surpassed only by those of Viking Polaris. It’s always easier to photograph the ship when it’s anchored far from shore.

Lunenburg Waterfront

Tendering Back to Viking Polaris

Louisbourg, Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia

It was a cold, damp, and overcast day when we arrived in Cape Breton Island for our visit to the historic town of Louisbourg. Cape Breton Island is at the eastern end of the province of Nova Scotia and sits at the confluence of the Gulf of St. Lawrence and the Atlantic Ocean. Today, we tendered into the town for our included tour, “Historic Fortress Louisbourg.” 

Arriving in Louisbourg

Before visiting the fortress, however, we traveled to the iconic Louisbourg Lighthouse, a historic structure with roots dating back three centuries. The current lighthouse sits high on the rocky coast and is on the site of Canada’s first lighthouse, built in 1734. We had a nice view of our ship from here.

Tim at the Louisbourg Lighthouse, with Our Ship in the Background

The Rocky Coastline of Cape Breton Island

We then traveled along the harbor to reach the historic Fortress of Louisbourg. Here, we joined our Parks Canada guide to experience the year 1744 during a tour of the largest eighteenth-century French fortified town in North America. During its heyday, Louisbourg was one of France’s linchpins of trade and military strength in the New World. Today, the partially reconstructed fortress is a living museum with more than 50 buildings across 12 acres.

Views Along the Harbor

We started our tour in the King’s Bastion, where we saw the chapel, and then began our walk through the town, learning about the history of many of the houses along the way. Afterwards, we had time to visit the various buildings on our own. It was starting to rain as we boarded our motorcoach for the ride to the tender, which returned us back to the ship. Although the weather hadn’t been the best, we were all grateful that we had taken the morning tour. At least we had been dry!

Fortress of Louisbourg and the the King's Bastion

The Streets and Buildings in the Fortress of Louisbourg

Engineer's Residence

Exhibit on the Construction Methods of the Buildings at the Fortress of Louisbourg

Imagining the Activity at the Fortress of Louisbourg in the 1700s

Tim and I had a delightful lunch with Donna, our speaker from last night, and her daughter Sarah, and learned more about their project. I was the only one of the four of us who helped to decimate Spencer the pig. Poor Spencer!

Lunch with Sarah, Donna, and Spencer - Poor Spencer!

I ended the day with another great lecture by Specialist Todd entitled “The Wreck of the Edmund Fitzgerald: Reflections on a Tragedy and a Song.” Todd used Gordon Lightfoot’s song as the basis for his recounting of the shipwreck on Lake Superior in 1975.

The Wreck of the Edmund Fitzgerald