Day 20 – Scenic Cruising of the Chilean Fjords

Today is another sea day, but we left the Pacific Ocean behind and entered the Chilean Fjords. We were in sight of land all day, although the land was in the distance. The sea is much calmer here, with minimal rocking and rolling.

A specialty Pasta Station was featured at lunch today, and it was very popular. I think the wait was worth it, however.

Pasta Station

Our new Specialist Historian Loreen presented a fascinating lecture on the “National Parks of Patagonia.” The story of how two visionary individuals bought up land in Chile for conservation purposes and then donated the land to the Chilean government for the creation of national parks was inspiring.

Chilean National Parks - A Legacy for the Ages

Loreen then told us about the Route of Parks that is a result of their efforts. This scenic route of approximately 1,700 miles takes travelers to the ends of earth by connecting 17 national parks in southern Chile. I’m so glad that we will be visiting several of these beautiful and varied landscapes on this journey.

Chilean National Parks and the Route of Parks

Day 19 – Sailing the Pacific Ocean

Happy Halloween! Of course, the Viking crew could not let a holiday pass without creating something special! A few days ago, they debuted a very cool display of carved pumpkins. Although most were created by the chefs, each department also contributed to the effort. The results were impressive and quite creative.

Happy Halloween!

Are You Scared?

Today was the day to collect our waterproof boots, which will be needed for our landings. Tim and I found ones that fit, and we will keep them in our cabin.

These Boots Are Made for Landings

Yesterday, we happened to meet two of the new Expedition Team members and learned that their names are Sara and Tim. What a coincidence! We managed to get a photo of the four of us today.

Sara and Tim and Tim and Sarah

Tim attended the mandatory submarine briefing, and he will get to experience this activity while we’re in the Chilean fjords. I decided to pass since the idea of transferring from a zodiac to a submarine while at sea seemed to be an accident waiting to happen for me. I’ll just stick to the zodiacs.

Day 18 – Valparaiso (Santiago), Chile

Viking Octantis docked this morning in Valparaiso, Chile, where the majority of passengers and many of the crew disembarked and new guests came on board. 

Valparaiso, the closest seaport to Santiago, is known for its steep hillsides and colorful, clifftop homes. The city was the leading commercial port on the sea routes of the Pacific coast of South America that linked the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans via the Strait of Magellan. Today, the city is regarded as Chile's unofficial cultural capital.

Valparaiso Welcomes You

Tim and I wanted to explore the city, so we selected the included excursion, “Historic Buildings of Viña del Mar & Panoramic Valparaíso,” to explore Chilean art, culture, and history. This was the description.

Embark on a journey to discover the splendid art, culture, and history of Chile. Board your motor coach for a coastal drive to the city of Viña del Mar. Visit Quinta Vergara Park, an oasis of greenery within the city, to witness the Vergara Palace. This stately residence was constructed in the early twentieth century and was once home to the founding family of Viña del Mar. Today, it houses an art gallery featuring works by both national and international artists. Explore its halls before returning to your coach to enjoy a panoramic drive back to Valparaíso. Pass through charming residential areas, before stopping at Plaza Sotomayor, the heart of Valparaíso’s historic center. Take a moment to appreciate the monument commemorating the Heroes of Iquique, unveiled in 1886, before beginning the journey back to your awaiting ship.

We began our excursion with a panoramic tour of Valparaiso. After leaving the port, we drove along Avenida Brasil, one of the widest avenues in Valparaiso. The avenue, which features two rows of palm trees in a central median, is lined with colonial-era mansions and other historic buildings. We learned that Valparaiso is an excellent example of late nineteenth-century urban and architectural development in Latin America due to the influx of European immigrants that left their mark on the city’s architecture and cultural institutions.

Scenes along Avenida Brasil

After passing through the downtown area, we stopped at Plaza Sotomayor, the main square in Valparaiso. The plaza is known for its historic architecture and naval monuments and serves as a central hub for both locals and tourists. Significant landmarks include the Public Monument to the Heroes of Iquique, erected in 1886, and the palatial blue-colored Edificio Armada de Chile, which dominates the plaza. Other administration and port service buildings from different eras and architectural styles surround the square.

Plaza Sotomayor

We next traveled to the resort city of Viña del Mar, famous for its beaches, parks, and cultural events. We were able to glimpse several buildings from the nineteenth and early twentieth centuries that survived both redevelopment and the multiple earthquakes that destroyed most of the older areas of the city.

A Few Remaining Nineteenth-Century Mansions in Viña del Mar

We stopped to visit Palacio Vergara, the former home of Francisco Vergara, the founder of Viña del Mar.  The palace, a beautiful example of Venetian Gothic style architecture, is now home to the city’s fine arts museum.  It should come as no surprise that I was more interested in the architecture than the artwork.

Palacio Vergara

Reception Room, Palacio Vergara

Palacio Vergara

Painting of Palacio Vergara

Next up was the Municipal Theatre of Viña del Mar, a center of cultural and artistic events.

Municipal Theatre of Viña del Mar

During our tour of the beautiful theater, most of us were distracted by a protest parade that passed in front of the theater, and we went outside to watch. Our guide didn’t know what the protest was about but assumed it had something to do with the upcoming election. The protest was very peaceful, and it exposed us to another element of Chilean culture.

Watching the Protest Parade from the Steps of the Theater

After escaping the traffic surrounding the protest, we made out way to the waterfront, where we drove along the seashore, with beautiful coastal views. We saw the flower clock, an obligatory tourist destination that sits at the foot of a hill overlooking the Pacific Ocean.

The Drive along the Seashore

Flower Clock

Our guide was a fount of knowledge, but he only made a brief, negative mention of the graffiti that is so prevalent in Valparaiso. I later learned that the city is world-renowned for its street art, which serves as a platform for social commentary, memory, and identity, and is considered a major part of its cultural heritage. Street art is even touted as a tourist attraction, and I wish our tour had included some of the best examples of it.

Lots of Graffiti and Street Art

Colorful Pylons

On our way back to the ship, we walked through the local vendors in terminal building, and I saw the most interesting accessory for wine enthusiasts, a leather holder for a wine glass. I’d never seen anything like it!

A Personal Wine Glass Holder

Many new Expedition Team members, and a new Expedition Leader, joined us today, and we met them at the Daily Briefing.

New Expedition Leader Olivia and the Expedition Team

Today marked the end of the first segment of our cruise, from Fort Lauderdale to Valparaiso. Up next is Valparaiso to Ushuaia.

Segment 1 - Fort Lauderdale to Valparaiso

Day 17 – Sailing the Pacific Ocean

Today was another relaxing sea day as most of the passengers on the ship got ready to disembark in Valparaiso tomorrow. Executive Chef Beni and his team put together one more special event for lunch – a Cake Buffet of decadent delights overseen by two dolphins. Tim and I managed to sample several offerings, and I partook of the Irish coffee prepared by bartender Dom.

Decadent Cake Buffet

The big event of the day was The Great Pacific Race, which finally took place after days of waiting for calmer seas. Captain Ivo pulled the ship into Bahia Tongoy, and the zodiac races began. There were two races, each with eight zodiacs, and the top four teams competed in a final race to determine the winner. The twist was that the six passengers on each zodiac had to paddle their way to the finish line. The wind and waves did not deter the brave souls from attempting to reach their goal, but the efforts were quite amusing to watch.

The Great Pacific Race

The race was a fun attempt by the Expedition Team to permit passengers to enjoy some of the “toys” on board, since none of the zodiacs, kayaks, or special operation boats were deployed during this segment of the cruise.

Day 16 – Sailing the Pacific Ocean

Tim and I looked forward to the first of two days at sea before we reach Valparaiso, Chile, the port closest to Santiago. 

After a very lazy morning, we made our way to the World Café for another special event. Executive Chef Beni and his culinary team prepared a Corallina lunch, a traditional savory Chilean dish. Ours consisted of a bowl of lettuce and salted French fries topped with beef, a fried egg, caramelized onions, shredded cheese, and fried arugula. It was a very unusual combination, but quite tasty.

Restaurant Manager Alfredo, Head Waiter Genesis, and My Corallina Lunch

The highlight of the day, however, was a special event that I had arranged with Restaurant Manager Alfredo. Because there are so many crew and passengers on board who sailed together on the World Cruise, I wanted to arrange a reunion where we could all get together and have a chance to catch up. Alfredo was receptive to the idea, and we selected this afternoon for the event.

Viking World Cruise Reunion Invitation

Nine of the ten crew members were able to attend, and it was so much fun to spend time with these wonderful people and learn a little more about them. It was a bit strange that Tim and I knew the crew better than the three passengers who came, so I enjoyed getting to know them as well. I think everyone had a good time. I know I did!

Dave, Lynn, Khyati, Ralasha, Danang, Asif, Grace, Ron, Bob, Ashley, Joan, and Margie 

A Fun Reunion

There was a Viking Farewell Reception late this afternoon for those passengers disembarking in Valparaiso on Thursday, but Tim and I decided not to attend. We are very happy that we will not disembark until four weeks from now.

Tim and I dined this evening at Manfredi’s Italian Restaurant. It was a nice change of pace for us, and the food was excellent.

Insalada Caprese and Sea Bream with a Lemon Butter Sauce, Peas, and Pureed Beets

I was enjoying myself so much at dinner that Tim had to remind me of this evening’s lecture that I had wanted to attend. I arrived a few minutes late to Matias’ talk on “Chile: A History of Contrasts.” Since we will be spending a lot of time in Chile, it was interesting to learn more about this country.

Chile: A History of Contrasts

Day 15 – Iquiqui, Chile

Viking Octantis docked early this morning in Iquiqui, Chile, so a crew member could be transported to the hospital. I hope it wasn’t too serious. Iquiqui is one of Chile’s premier beach resorts and is located between the Pacific Ocean and the Pampa del Tamarugal, a vast plateau within the Atacama Desert.

Tim and I once again selected different tours. He picked an optional excursion, “Santa Laura & the Atacama Giant,” to see a mining ghost town and the world’s largest geoglyph, while I selected another optional excursion, “Humberstone & Cerro Pintados Geoglyphs,” to explore the heritage of the Atacama Desert. This was the description:

Explore the history and heritage of the world’s driest desert, the Atacama. Embark your coach for a scenic drive across the Chilean Coastal Range and into the Pampa region of the great Atacama Desert. This desolate landscape became a conflict zone during the 19th century as three South American nations—Peru, Bolivia and Chile—fought over its resources. Stop in Humberstone, an abandoned mining town and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Here, you will learn about the all important nitrate industry and the communal Pampino culture. The dry, desert climate has preserved the ghost-like town and you will see the workers quarters, the factory plant and the railway. Next, you will drive toward the Pampa del Tamarugal National Reserve. See the Cerro Pintados geoglyphs—monumental drawings of animals, people and geometric symbols that have been carved into the surrounding hillsides. Admire the ingenuity of the bygone indigenous cultures that thrived in these difficult conditions.

As I was boarding the motorcoach, I suddenly panicked when I realized that I had left my phone/camera charging on my desk. There was no time to retrieve it, and I felt as though I had left my right arm behind. How could I possibly remember what I would be seeing today without photos? I had to force myself to calm down and enjoy the ride to our first stop.

We drove through the city of Iquiqui, which looked very interesting from an architectural perspective, and soon began our climb into the Atacama Desert. The Atacama Desert is the driest place on earth, where not one drop of rain falls. Brown was the only color for miles, and I had never seen any landscape like it. Although the sky was overcast when we left the ship, our guide promised that the sun would be out shortly, and he was correct.

Atacama Desert - Brown Everywhere

After about 45 minutes, we arrived at Humberstone, one of the two best preserved company towns that abounded in northern Chile’s Atacama Desert from the late nineteenth until the mid-twentieth century. Here, thousands of people from Chile, Bolivia, and Peru lived and worked in this hostile environment, processing the largest deposit of saltpeter, or sodium nitrate, in the world. Until the invention of artificial fertilizers, sodium nitrates were in high demand by farmers across the Americas and in Europe. These company towns witnessed the birth, growth, and decline of an industry that brought great wealth to Chile and was the cradle of its labor movement.

Scenes from Humberstone (photos courtesy of iStock by Getty Images)

While I visited Humberstone, Tim visited Santa Clara, a similar operation. These two sites complement each other and comprise the Humberstone and Santa Laura Saltpeter Works UNESCO World Heritage Site. While Humberstone’s residential and service areas are better-preserved, Santa Laura’s industrial area is better conserved. I was especially interested in our tour of the living quarters and public buildings at Humberstone.

Our excellent guide explained that the towns were run by companies from Great Britain. Life for the workers was grueling, and living conditions were dismal. Four men were assigned to a single room and shared two beds. Two worked the day shift, while the other two worked the night shift. We saw those rooms, as well as the separate living quarters for families.

Due to the extreme hardness of the soil, there was no sewer system, so toilets consisted of a can, and that was true for everyone who worked at Humberstone. Company executives, who lived in better accommodations, however, may have had a porcelain pot instead of a tin can.

Surrounding the main square were communal buildings and other facilities, including a church, school, store, hotel, and even a swimming pool. Our guide pointed out the ceiling in one of the community buildings, which was comprised of palm fronds. It was so interesting to realize that although the ceiling was partially open to the sky, that was not an issue since it never rained in the Atacama Desert.

Humberstone Entrance, Church, Community Building Ceiling, Parish House, School, and Swimming Pool
(clockwise from top left)

Pay was in the form of tokens, which could only be redeemed at the company store for extremely high prices, reminiscent of the coal towns in the United States. Demand for better conditions and greater social justice led to the creation of workers’ unions, which played an important role in the introduction of the country's first labor laws.

Company Store

We didn't visit any of the industrial buildings, but we did see various equipment around the site.

Assorted Equipment at Humberstone

Thanks to Carol, who graciously shared her photos with me, I was able to add these additional images that illustrate life at Humberstone.

From Humberstone, we continued our drive through the desert and began to see more trees. The Atacama Desert is home to a few varieties of trees that have adapted to its harsh conditions, including the resilient Tamarugo, a few of which we saw at Humberstone. These trees have a unique ability to extract water from deep underground.

We finally reached the Cerro Pintados Geoglyphs, the main reason why I had selected this excursion. Geoglyphs are ancient artworks that are drawn into the landscape, and the ones at Cerros Pintados, or “Painted Hills, “are a series of more than several hundred that were created by pre-Hispanic Andean peoples on the region's barren hills between 700 and 1500 AD. It is believed that these geoglyphs served as guideposts for caravans crossing the Atacama Desert from the Andes to the Pacific Ocean.

The geoglyphs represent geometric, zoomorphic, and anthropomorphic figures, and most were created by scraping the surface material from the ground, thus producing a contrast with the natural hillside. Our guide told us that there are hundreds more geoglyphs on the other side of the hills that were not visible from where we stood. The Pintados Geoglyphs Archaeological Complex has been included on the tentative list of UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

Cerro Pintados Geoglyphs

Cerro Pintados Geoglyphs - Overall View of the Site

Arrows and Animals

Animals and Geometric Figures

More Animals and Figures

More Arrows and Various Figures

Simply Amazing Artwork

Thanks to Carol and Bob, Carol’s husband, for sharing his photos of the geoglyphs.

While I was admiring the Cerro Pintados Geoglyphs, Tim was marveling at the Atacama Giant, the largest prehistoric anthropomorphic geoglyph in the world. It’s too bad there was not enough time for both of us to see the two sites.

Atacama Giant

After returning to the ship, we were entertained on the pier by a local band and dancers. What a nice send-off from Iquiqui!

Farewell to Iquiqui!

Day 14 – Sailing the Pacific Ocean

Tim and I are using the excuse of losing an hour of sleep last night as the reason we didn’t get up until 10:00 am. Such lazy bums, but it was so delicious to sleep in!

I did manage, however, to attend the Bridge Tour. This was another behind-the-scenes tour, and we learned how the officers get us where we’re going safely.

Bridge Tour

We have been blessed with calm seas and wonderful weather since we boarded Viking Octantis in Fort Lauderdale. Yesterday, however, we started to feel a bit of motion, and today, we are rocking and rolling. We’ve certainly experienced worse, but it was a bit of a shock since things had been so good for so long.

Between working on the blog post for Lima and planning a special event, the afternoon and evening slipped away. Tim and I did take time to enjoy the Wine and Cheese Special Event in the World Café. It was a perfect dinner for us.

A Beautiful Cheese Display, and Good Wine